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Well, after starting the conversion about 8pm last night, we now have the car running at 11pm tonight.
However.. We're running the NA ECU and map sensor. I have been told that the NA map sensor can't handle the boost. I struggle to believe this, seeing as the NA sensor is rated at 1.5bar (22psi roughly) and we are only running the stock 6psi. Can someone shed some light as to whether this is the truth? Also, we do not have any boost control on the turbo as yet. The little vacuum nipple on the front of the turbo has nothing running to it at the moment. Do we need a boost controller and is this where it is plumbed to? If not, do we just take the nipple out and put a bolt in its place? The idle was sitting on about 1200rpm. We have not taken the butterfly valves out of the manifold. Is this why the idle was high? Can we just do the cable tie trick? I am not too sure on how to do this though. Some pics would be great! When we started the car, we splt one of the fuel hoses coming off the fuel rail. We're not sure why. Did we put the two hoses on backwards when we swapped the fuel rail (to the XR6T rail)? What does each hose do? We haven't brought the car onto boost yet either. It's running a complete XR6T setup on a NA motor. Fuel reg, injectors, turbo, cooler. Some answers would be very helpful! Also pics would be great. Thanks guys!
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{USERNAME} wrote: We're running the NA ECU and map sensor. I have been told that the NA map sensor can't handle the boost. I struggle to believe this, seeing as the NA sensor is rated at 1.5bar (22psi roughly) and we are only running the stock 6psi. Can someone shed some light as to whether this is the truth?
Never heard of a 1.5bar MAP sensor. They are normally 1, 2, 3 or 5-bar. A NA MAP sensor by definition is 1 bar as the maximum pressure measured is atmospheric. Take care to understand what MAP means too... Manifold Absolute Pressure. Boost is normally measured as "relative" pressure - relative to atmospheric. Absolute pressure is pressure above total vacuum, so atmospheric pressure expressed in absolute terms is 1 bar. So 6psi of boost as measured by a MAP sensor is 14.7psi (atmospheric) + 6psi = 20.7psi or approx 1.4 bar.
_________________ AU1.5 Wagon, Raptor ProStreet kit, Pacemaker 4499's with 3" collector, 3" metal cat, 3" pipe, Pex BSO660 & BSO439, BA brakes, Sprintgas mixer LPG system, Airod variable-venturi mixer... stealth FTW Sniper tuned! |
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{USERNAME} wrote: When we started the car, we splt one of the fuel hoses coming off the fuel rail. We're not sure why. Did we put the two hoses on backwards when we swapped the fuel rail (to the XR6T rail)? What does each hose do?
One would be the supply line & the other the return line (to take excess fuel back to the tank). Dunno how you'd get so much pressure to split a line though. If you did manage it, that might affect the idle too?
_________________ AU1.5 Wagon, Raptor ProStreet kit, Pacemaker 4499's with 3" collector, 3" metal cat, 3" pipe, Pex BSO660 & BSO439, BA brakes, Sprintgas mixer LPG system, Airod variable-venturi mixer... stealth FTW Sniper tuned! |
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| braidy |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Never heard of a 1.5bar MAP sensor. They are normally 1, 2, 3 or 5-bar. A NA MAP sensor by definition is 1 bar as the maximum pressure measured is atmospheric.
Take care to understand what MAP means too... Manifold Absolute Pressure. Boost is normally measured as "relative" pressure - relative to atmospheric. Absolute pressure is pressure above total vacuum, so atmospheric pressure expressed in absolute terms is 1 bar. So 6psi of boost as measured by a MAP sensor is 14.7psi (atmospheric) + 6psi = 20.7psi or approx 1.4 bar. Ah, I understand. So, running this setup, the MAP sensor will s**t itself if we feed it 6psi from the turbo? I do have the XR6T sensor, but the plug is different and we really need to get the car running. I can change it over at a later date though.
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: When we started the car, we splt one of the fuel hoses coming off the fuel rail. We're not sure why. Did we put the two hoses on backwards when we swapped the fuel rail (to the XR6T rail)? What does each hose do? One would be the supply line & the other the return line (to take excess fuel back to the tank). Dunno how you'd get so much pressure to split a line though. If you did manage it, that might affect the idle too? What would happen if these two were around the wrong way? I assume the hose going to the reg is the supply, and the one from the little tube underneath the rail is the return? The hose had slipped down the sleeve that it clamps to on the bottom of the reg too.
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The reg is on the rail itself, so it will be bypassed if the hoses are switched? The injectors will be getting fuel at the full pump pressure and overfuelling the engine. Maybe the fast idle is part of the ECU's strategy for dealing with excess fuel?
Just guessing really. I do know that if I ever have to disconnect fuel lines in future, I'll make sure to mark one so they go back right 
_________________ AU1.5 Wagon, Raptor ProStreet kit, Pacemaker 4499's with 3" collector, 3" metal cat, 3" pipe, Pex BSO660 & BSO439, BA brakes, Sprintgas mixer LPG system, Airod variable-venturi mixer... stealth FTW Sniper tuned! |
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| bfhoon |
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as for your boost control.
just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo. you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi. not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it.
_________________ bf xr6turbo siemens injectors, full plazmaman 800 hp intercooler kit, 5 inch cat and custom dual 2.5 inch zorst, billet flywheel with mal wood clutch kit, braided hoses, big brakes, 3.2L surge tank/w twin 044's rebuilt motor with forged and billet everything 420+ rwkw on 98. holden killer. |
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{USERNAME} wrote: as for your boost control.
just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo. you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi. not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it. Yeah, I have the wastegate connected to a nipple off the intake manifold. So, I should change it to have the wastegate hose connected to the nipple on the compressor housing?
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| Mr.Kiss |
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{USERNAME} wrote: as for your boost control.
just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo. you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi. not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it. The factorty actuator is only 4psi... by the time you factor in all the losses (restrictions) you'll probably only get 2psi if your lucky..
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: as for your boost control. just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo. you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi. not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it. The factorty actuator is only 4psi... by the time you factor in all the losses (restrictions) you'll probably only get 2psi if your lucky.. What do you mean?
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| Mr.Kiss |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: as for your boost control. just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo. you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi. not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it. The factorty actuator is only 4psi... by the time you factor in all the losses (restrictions) you'll probably only get 2psi if your lucky.. What do you mean? Oops!! sorry didnt see that u connected the wastegate actuator up to the manifold... I thought you had it hooked upto the turbine housing 
But yes the factory actuator is only 4psi
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: as for your boost control. just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo. you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi. not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it. The factorty actuator is only 4psi... by the time you factor in all the losses (restrictions) you'll probably only get 2psi if your lucky.. What do you mean? Oops!! sorry didnt see that u connected the wastegate actuator up to the manifold... I thought you had it hooked upto the turbine housing But yes the factory actuator is only 4psi I used to have it running off a nipple on the intake manifold, now it is coming off the nipple on the turbo. Is this the right way to do it? How is it done in the XR6T?
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| Mr.Kiss |
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{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: as for your boost control. just put a vacume hose from that niple to the shiny gold thing on the other side of the turbo. you want it to run from the nipple to the waste gate actuator, this should give you 6 psi. not having the wastegate connected will give you the max boost the turbo can give. and probly blow it. The factorty actuator is only 4psi... by the time you factor in all the losses (restrictions) you'll probably only get 2psi if your lucky.. What do you mean? Oops!! sorry didnt see that u connected the wastegate actuator up to the manifold... I thought you had it hooked upto the turbine housing But yes the factory actuator is only 4psi I used to have it running off a nipple on the intake manifold, now it is coming off the nipple on the turbo. Is this the right way to do it? How is it done in the XR6T? On the xr6t's it goes from the nipple on the turbo to the boost control soliniod then to the actuator.
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| bfhoon |
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thats correct.
from the turbo to the control solonoid then off to the wastegate actuator. even with a 4 psi actuator you will make 5 psi. best bet is to get a bleed valve to control the boost level till u get a proper electronic controler. using a bleed valve is a nice smooth way of holding boost as it slowly opens the wastegate as boost rises not slamming open the gate when boost is achived causing spike. just a nother note, dont make your exhaust too big, too much flow will cause boost control problems as the stock turbos wastegate is too small.
_________________ bf xr6turbo siemens injectors, full plazmaman 800 hp intercooler kit, 5 inch cat and custom dual 2.5 inch zorst, billet flywheel with mal wood clutch kit, braided hoses, big brakes, 3.2L surge tank/w twin 044's rebuilt motor with forged and billet everything 420+ rwkw on 98. holden killer. |
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| DA22LE |
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Hey,
Was surfing for info' last nite and found an article on Autospeed for boost control, and no electronics required, looked ok. Unless you want a high and low setting then an EBC is the way to go. {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION} Was good reading. Cheers Daz 
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