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caged |
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Age: 63 Posts: 1 Joined: 5th Dec 2011 Ride: Ford XC Fairmont Location: Melbourne, Eastern suburbs |
Hi Guys,
Was advised when I first bought my GXL that I should change the rear calipers over to Jag calipers, That was 30 years ago. Well since then I have replaced around 8 times. The car is seldom used and club plated. What options do I have ?? I am unsure whether it is just the poor design incorporating handbrake or just a poor set up. Is a non brakefluid a solution. Ie 5/30 synthetic engine oil as fluid. Or piss off the calipers. I reckon I have done less than 200kms in two years and fluid level down and brakes appear ceased/ rubbing on discs. New discs as well at that time so don't want to bugger them as difficult and expensive to strip off axle. Any advice considered as car is parked mostly due to wife, kids, skiboat, 4WD, a KTM and Husky. Yours truly Caged |
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sooty72 |
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The brakes are probably rusting more than anything. Theres not much you can do to stop it, other than driving it more often, even just a quick 5 minute spin around the block once a week or so.
If you want to replace the calipers, early e-series would be the easiest IMHO, as they still use the pads for the handbrake, rather than the internal drum-type brake on the later cars. I doubt they would just bolt on, but you never know your luck. Maybe talk to some brake specialists, and see what they recomment re the pads, to stop/slow the rusting and binding problem... Good luck.
_________________ Yes, I own a Ute. No, I won't help you move! |
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cjh |
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You could try changing the caliper to the XD - XF rears.....very similar to EA - ED.
They (XD, XE, XF) had ventilated disc's...the EA to ED didn't, so they wont fit on the 9" rear. Were the slides greased properly????...need to use a silicone based grease like SuperLube... http://www.chaosfab.com/product/accesso ... erlube.jpg ......it is even salt water resistant. And when you park it, don't have the handbrake on.....just chock it.
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Mick JJ |
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I'm a little confused, are they jaguar calipers that are fitted or the original items?. I have owned both a 5.8 GXL and GS (both with 9" disc rear, obviously) and I must say I never had any problems like those you describe- went through a few front discs but never any rears. From memory, theres a multi-start thread arrangement which can bind up through lack of use, burrs etc. With rear calipers theres also important cam and adjuster screw alignment which must be set relative to housings. The only other thing I can think off is a faulty proportioning valve in your master cylinder or maybe the rear brakes are working too hard due to faulty/ seized front calipers. Seized calipers may drag for a while, but I wouldn't think they would chop out discs at the rate you say is happening. Handbrake with disc rear is a bastard, constantly out of adjustment etc, but I wouldn't think it would cause problems to the degree you mention. Most diffs of this vintage would have had a wheel bearing replacement by now, and the "Glassy" axles fitted in the XC series can cause probs if the job hasn't been done properly, with re-welding of retaining collar etc causing excessive float ( does the brake pedal pulse when applied?). My advice is to get it back too factory specs, buy a proper Ford repair manual and work through the problem that way.
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cjh |
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Mick JJ |
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cjh wrote: This is what Jag calipers look like......and they use a solid disc too. Impressive (and complicated) looking piece of engineering, lol. Dia/ sweep area looks massive. Solid discs look quite thin, any probs with overheating/ warpage? |
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cjh |
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Mick JJ wrote: cjh wrote: This is what Jag calipers look like......and they use a solid disc too. Impressive (and complicated) looking piece of engineering, lol. Dia/ sweep area looks massive. Solid discs look quite thin, any probs with overheating/ warpage? Dunno yet....not my car, just helping out with welding, advice, and some manufacturing of bits for it.
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