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| XR-Lane |
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Nice tidy ED Tim
Like your mods, and some nice pics of the 3 ED's. Your family must love their boxcars Cheers Josh |
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| CamFord |
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Hey Tim,
Awesome looking beast. Good thing I have tissues to wipe away the drool. How much did the Momo Steering wheel set you back? I saw one go off on ebay a couple weeks back for $300. I know sometimes they go for nearly 600 or so. |
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| TimmyA |
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{USERNAME} wrote: They look familiar Tim Hey there buddy... Yeah cheers for all that butchering... I had to get around to getting it in there eventually... You probably notice the fuse block when it goes in too... {USERNAME} wrote: Look's great, almost identical to my old XR6, How long until the Lockright goes in? Hey Brett... Like all good things... trying to slot it into my schedule along with renos on my house and also line up my old man as he has a hoist at work so that'll make it a hell of a lot easier... It'll happen on day... i hope like the cam I own and am getting round to putting in... {USERNAME} wrote: Nice tidy ED Tim Like your mods, and some nice pics of the 3 ED's. Your family must love their boxcars Cheers Josh Josh, yeah matey its easy all ED's all the same easier to understand and diagnose problems... plus we own a spare parts car cost us 160 bucks from wagga so thats good too... Funny thing is we all love our Ford's and dad has a 1968 HK holden and mum has a 1999 VT commodore... so quite funny how that worked out... I didn't want no VN or VR looking commodore though... Horrid shaped cars... We did well I think mine was the dearest at 1600 for a factory manual, the white one was 500 and needed a head gasket change and the silver one was 1200 i think... all straight all with factory cruise... Cheers for the encouragement... {USERNAME} wrote: Hey Tim, Awesome looking beast. Good thing I have tissues to wipe away the drool. How much did the Momo Steering wheel set you back? I saw one go off on ebay a couple weeks back for $300. I know sometimes they go for nearly 600 or so. Hey matey... haha yeah I have those moments too... The wheel was owned buy someone on here (not sure who now) and he couldn't sell it and it ended up on ebay and I bought off ebay just before I started using this forum and found it on here... It set me back $450 bucks but man do I love it... Eventually I'll run a full EL/AU column (combo switch clock spring and wheel) so I'll hang onto this fella, might be worth more one day... might not... but for something in pretty good nic its worth the space in the cupboard... I saw a brand spanker never been on a car on ebay once... I wanted it so bad with didn't have the over 1k it ended up going for... again cheers for the comments...
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| TimmyA |
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Ok...
Update... Some of you may have seen my latest thread popping up regarding Variable wipers into an ED falcon and I'll tell you it can be done and once you know how its not all that bad... I'll post up some pics when I get them tomorrow, but this mod has involved an EL combo switch with variable int wipers, and patch harness to plug this into the ED loom (easy reversal), an EL column to mount the combo switch to, EL cruise to get the buttons on the wheel to work (esp set -), and a custom built timer to get the wipers to work... All in all now I look back on what I have done it seems rather simple... The biggest feats have been: *Making a custom steering column with an EL top half and an ED bottom half and my thanks go to BenJ for pointing me in the right direction on where to find this and telling it me that dispite looking impossible, that its actually not that hard. This part is now complete... *Making a custom cruise cable to reach the log manifold and this has turned out much easier than I first imagined, and for what has been $2 in parts so far its relatively cheap to do... I just have to make up the loom to wire into the ED and make up/find a thing to crimp on the end to mount to the butterfly... *Making the timer from scratch... There has been a lot of learning here and like Thomas Edison, a 1000 ways not to make a variable int timer, and one that works... A lot of idea on how to best get it going has come from Murray who makes the E series diagnostic units... So thanks to him to for the countless email and schematics we have been drawing and sending back and forth... In the end its super simple now and fairly bullet-proof... Its 6 wires, 1 wiper accy power (this comes from elsewhere, not in the column wires), 1 wire which earths out when on Int (gives ground to make the circuit go), 1 park wire, causes the timer to count when parked and reset when running, one output to pulse the BEM and 2 wires from the potentiometer in the column. This is another plug out of my patch harness and should the timer ever fail, I unplug the timer, bridge out the Int wires in the plug and it runs as per factory with no variable int so very failsafe... All in all its slowly becoming more and more of a success... Thanks for the people who have had an input into the final outcome of this project and hopefully might help anyone else who wants to do something similar to their cars... Thats it for now... Pics tomorrow... Thanks, Tim
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| jonathon |
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where did you get your white dials from?
_________________ Owning 1 of 84,847 ebII. |
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| TimmyA |
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Hi there...
A guy on ebay goes under speed graphics... {DESCRIPTION} I found him to be pretty good... He added the extra logos for nothing (back a couple of years ago) and did a great job with them... The illuminate great with good multi-directional LED's... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Bit slack I know but here the pics as promised...
First we have the custom steering column... Attachment: DSC_0645.JPG Attachment: DSC_0646.JPG This was fairly straight forward once you see how they work... The EL one is easy to get apart... You pop out that cir-clip and use the lower column like a slide hammer to, as gently as possible, tap out the bottom bush (or needle roller maybe?) and the lower section will then come straight out... The ED one is a bit more of a pain... The bottom bush is a pain to get out and we ended up cutting the bottom inch or two off the outer column as it wouldn't budge... the lower section of column will again slide out... Now you will see the upper column section is a solid bar that goes to a male flat type fitting and lower section is a female flat type fitting where they simply slide into each other... All you need to do now is get the bush/needle roller off the EL lower back onto the ED lower... Everything comes off the bottom end of the EL lower shaft so getting this needle roller off is no worries... Getting it on the ED one is the tricky part... you have to nic the 4 spot welds that hold the tube adaptor on the ED lower (this is a piece of thick wall tube that lives inside the outer column, its been flattened on one end to take the male flat section and left round on the other where its welded to the round section...) Put some witness marks on it before removing... You'll need a cold chisel and hammer to get it off... You'll notice the column section under it has been knurled for a tight fit... Grind off/neaten up old welds... Slide needle roller on... Completely remove ED upper shaft (cir-clip right behind where wheel goes) and this to align the reinforcer (as inner tube is flattened to mate with upper also) this ensures they can't be out of alignment... Tap back to where it lived before... Give it 4 spot welds and it as good as when it come from the factory again... Unfortunately I didn't think to stop and get photos when I was doing this one night... But as you pull it apart and see what's in there for yourself, it all makes sense... Next is the custom cruise control module... Attachment: DSC_0641.JPG Attachment: DSC_0642.JPG Attachment: DSC_0644.JPG Ok this was fairly simple... Massacre the EL cable to get the end that goes into the side of the cruise module... You sort of have to cut the rubber coating on the cable and then using a pin punch tap the fitting off... Get your ED cable and in much the same fashion you tap the end fitting off, but you can leave the vinyl/plastic outer coating untouched here... then just clamp a drill bit in the vice which is a similar size to the outside of the ED cable and buy hand screw the EL fitting onto it, doing this by hand ensures you can go past and damage the stopper that limits how far the cable goes into the fitting... Once its a fraction smaller push it into the ED cable and that's the outer cable completed). For an inner I went to the push bike shop and bought a gear change cable (as it's similar diameter and stiffness to the EL cable (the ED inner is way too thick and way too stiff to go around the cam on the cruise module). $2 this 1.6m long gal cable cost me, and to my added benefit it had two different soldered lugs on the end... I found out which was a better fit in the cam on cruise module, cut the other off... Fed it down the outer, and clipped that fitting back into the side of cruise module... That's pretty much how it stand now... I'll get something made up to crimp/screw onto the end of the cable... I can cut it to length once it's in the car and attach this end... Again this looks rather factory... More coming but I can only have 5 attachments here... You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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Ok...
Up first we have the patch harness that will make everything work... The EL combo switch/clock spring goes into plugs, other two go into the ED plugs, and the last one is for my timing module for the variable int wipers... Attachment: DSC_0647.JPG Ok next my custom timer for which I etched the circuit board today... I used a new technique to me to do this, called Press n Peel film... You use a laser printer to transfer the image to the dull side of the film so you get this effect: Attachment: DSC_0639.JPG You then (after very thoroughly cleaning oxidisation of copper clad board) use and iron to re-heat to toner and cause it to stick to the copper clad board... And you peel the film back off and you get this: Attachment: DSC_0638.JPG And in theory the toner stays stuck to the board (took me a fair few goes to get it) and the you drop it in Ferric Chloride and let it eat the copper you don't want, you then remove the board, drill the holes (I used a double sided PCB so you have to hope the sides line up which mine just did) and then remove the toner (I used Carbie Cleaner, they recommend Acetone, Carbie Cleaner is what mechanics have though You're then left with this: Attachment: DSC_0650.JPG Attachment: DSC_0649.JPG I just have to trim it to the final size and then solder it up and trial it one last time (I think/hope the program transferred all the tracks)... And all should be good then... So all in all... So Far so Good... We'll see how the final product turns out though... Cheers for now... You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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And hopefully the completed circuit will resemble something of this nature...
Attachment: 556 Timer (Copper Fill Top).JPG Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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Not getting any feedback on this mod... Maybe no one else is interested in this sort of thing?
I had to re-make the timer coz I damaged the circuit board on the first one... So after re-etching another circuit board and soldering up another one it finally works... And you then end up with something of this nature: Attachment: DSC_0789.JPG Attachment: DSC_0791.JPG Attachment: DSC_0792.JPG Attachment: DSC_0794.JPG Attachment: DSC_0795.JPG I just made the circuit board as small as I could and it so happens its a perfect fit in a std UB5 jiffy box... It sits on the vertical board tracks and I stuck a couple of bits of foam to stop any rattles... It will cable tie up on top of the pedal box and you'll never know its there... Any feedback off anyone would be greatly appreciated... Cheers... You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| TimmyA |
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And also had my end for the cruise cable made up as well... I got the guy to lathe it down (as I don't have a lathe and drill the 2mm hole for the cable and I did the other hole and made some minor adjustments...
Seen here: Attachment: DSC_0789.JPG Attachment: DSC_0790.JPG Made out of aluminium and looks pretty good I think... Some measurements are: Dia where clip is: 9mm Dia of Barrel is: 10mm Length Of Barrel: 33mm Length of clip end: 12mm Dia of hole for ball on throttle body: 6.5mm Dia of hole for cable: 2mm Depth of cable hole: 30mm and all I will do now it cut the cable to length and take it to work and crimp the end on in the hydraulic crimper we have for crimping lugs to cables... Thats it for now... You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| BenJ |
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Very nice work mate.
Looking forward to seeing it all hooked up and working well. Then, you can make me one LOL. I like the attention to detail and the quality of your mods. Cheers BenJ
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| TimmyA |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Very nice work mate. Looking forward to seeing it all hooked up and working well. Then, you can make me one LOL. I like the attention to detail and the quality of your mods. Cheers BenJ Hey cheers... I don't like dangly wires and dodgy looking s**t... If I do it its gotta look factory and like it put there from Ford... Doesn't add any extra value unfortunately but then I know it looks right and will last... I can always make up another one... (circuit board I assume you mean)... I'm getting better with press n peel now... more reliable results... I can always just make the board and leave the rest to however anybody decides to wire it in... I'll list pin outs and people can pick up the wires and make up their own patch harnesses (coz its fiddly and long periods of time to get it neat) Always happy to assist... Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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Well after getting not much interest and support around the joint I assume I've either confused a lot of people and am doing mods that no one else is interested in...
Either way... Big weekend planned for the end of this week... Get this mod all finished off... Since last posting I have the EL cruise all made up and fitted in (only just missed the dual diaphragm booster) and hooked to the throttle body... And I am just extending the loom plug I cut of and EL... This will be heat shrinked up tomorrow when I remember to bring the heat gun home... So this entails, the dash out of my car, the dash out of our spare car... swap the heater boxes over while its out (my fan motor is extremely noisy and a/c is up to s**t) and then to wire this cruise in behind the dash tidy up my wire to bring the power windows on when unlocked and remove the wires for the timer module I used previously... And run a power wire into the column wires to power my timer for the variable int wipers... Lucky I'm not paying someone to do all this Last weekend I spent all Sunday tidying up the power side of the engine bay... This involved the installation of the fuse block out of the EL... I untaped about 2 foot of the main loom beside the battery and a foot under the header tank, pulled out the old alternator wires and then run the power fan wire and also the 8awg wire for my boot power (its the ALB fuse)... And the end of the EEC loom had three wires in it, the EEC earth, and the two wires for the hego fuse, so I cut these three off and installed a waterproof plug and then run them in with the big split loom tube so there is only one that runs from the booster to the battery now instead of two, I tucked the two loom tubes that run down beside the booster in behind the new cruise motor and they almost disappeared... So I now don't have the three massive fusible link plugs and the busbar down the side of the battery... Much tidier... Its all about as good as its going to get without making a completely custom loom and setting it up like the EL loom (behind the dash)... I managed to fix the loom under the header tank as the weight used to pull on the header tank sensor and break the insulation off the wires... So that's tidied up too now... All in all fairly please with the outcome... Oh and now the two small hose from the header tank are too short to go around the fuse block So now the thermo fan stuff it ready to go, just gotta run the triggers wires to the EEC on the weekend when the dash is out... So when the cam goes in and the J3'd EEC-V it will control the thermos and bye bye hub fan I might get some pics of the already done stuff tomorrow for show, if I remember Cheers for now...
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| TimmyA |
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{USERNAME} wrote: I'll jump in dude. I've been watching but haven't had much to say as I am a box car virgin. But I like following your work as your switched on and work f**k tidy and precise! If that was me, there would be s**t all over the work bent, I'd be working on top of 5-6 previous unfinished projects, there would be quite visible signs of several f**k ups and more than likely some blood thrown in to boot. I don't know why but I seem to cut my fingers and knuckles every time I go near a car part Keep it up mate. I know you ability to figure out electronics is beyond me, and more than likely it is for others too. But I'm sure there are plenty of people taking plenty on board ah cheers then... at least people are reading on then There generally is s**t everywhere (when you clean up you can never remember where you put stuff) I generally just look for the cleanest spot to take the photo Funny you mention the electronics... Its second nature the stuff I've done... and doesn't appear all that hard and the challenge was not that steep... I look at what datamine did with his shift buttons on his transmission in his BA/BF and that's way beyond me... All that digital stuff is another league... I like the ED its mostly analogue signals and that some pulse sensors and that about the most complicated part... The bus signals, and the like, in the modern cars leave me baffled... Cheers for the input though...
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