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 EF/EL Central Locking Replacemen
Replacement of Central Locking System for EF/EL

This document describes how to remove your old central locking system, then wire and install the new system using a Jaycar off the shelf central locking kit.

    Tools required:
  • Jaycar 4 door central locking Kit

  • soldering iron & solder

  • Wire cutters and strippers

  • electrical tape

  • Various tools to take your doors and dash off

  • Some bolts to attach the brackets to the doors (you will need 8 of them)

  • A drill for some new holes for the mounting brackets


    The Central Locking Kit from Jaycar:
  • Lots of wires (looks a bit daunting!)

  • The black controller box

  • 4 door locks

  • Door mounting brackets

  • Devices used to attach wires together

  • Some metal connecting wires

  • Some screws for connecting the locks to the brackets

    Approximate time required:
  • I would allow a day to complete this project, but depending on how quickly you can take off the door trims, replace the motors and strip a few wires, it could be done much quicker.


First Steps:
Take off your door trims (all of them) and unplug the motors, then proceed to remove them by drilling out the rivets (they are hard work to get out, have patience). Once you have the rivets out, the motors will be floating around, twist it around and remove the motor from the wire attaching it to the door lock, leave the wire attached to the lock.


Fig 1.


Fig 2.

That’s the hardest part over.
At this stage we aren’t going to place the new motors in, as its easier if they are working so we can check they are able to operate the lock properly, in most cases you will need to make some adjustments for it to work correctly.
Next step is to wire in the control box near the BEM to take the signal and send it to the master door lock, which then sends the signal through to all the slave motors.
You will need to remove your dash
This is where we need to find our way through the large amount of wires included in the Kit. Start from the white connector, there are four wires you should see are the shortest, they are brown and white (on one end), and black and red (on the other end). Black is Ground, Red is Power, White and Brown are for hooking up to a separate alarm with a remote locking output, even if you have a separate alarm, they aren’t much use as they won’t save you any work.


Fig 3.

A good idea now is to connect up the power and ground wires, (you may also like to disconnect the battery at this stage, unless you have some spare fuses on hand). These wires need to be connected TO CONSTANT POWER, the will be of no use if you wire them up to an accessory which only works when the ignition is on. I found the easiest place was to connect them into the Head Unit’s wiring, as I already have a handily placed wiring block. The power wire you need is dark green with a yellow stripe, and the ground wire is big and black.


Fig 4.

Next comes the BEM wiring, this is tricky as the wiring is pretty tight. Looking at the top of your BEM, there are two wires you need to locate, they are next to each other, one is yellow with a black stripe (lock wire), the other is red with a yellow stripe (unlock wire), these wires correspond with the wires in the switch in the master door lock. So you need to locate them, they are the first ones along the line and there are five of them together, they are green, blue, white, black and brown. We are interested in the brown and white wires. You need to cut/strip the brown and white wire close to the connector as they need to be able to reach into the drivers door to connect with the motor later on.

    The wires need to be connected:
    Brown <- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Red with Yellow Stripe
    White <- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Yellow with Black Stripe
This is were I went the long way, I ran all the blue/green wires to all the locks individually, however after further testing there’s no reason why you can’t run them through the factory wiring.
Only connect the end of the BEM wire that comes out of the BEM, the wires running to the doors will be connected to the blue and green wires, which will then run to the slaves via the factory wiring locations (under the floor/dash etc).


Fig 5.

We can then cut the green and blue wires and connect them to the other end of the BEM output wires (the ones you previously cut and connected to the brown and white wires)
    The wires need to be connected:
    Green <- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Yellow with Black Stripe
    Blue <- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > Red with Yellow Stripe
Now you need to run the 3 wires that the master lock needs into the door separately from the others, this means running the wires up behind the kick panel, out through the body and back into the door and having enough wire to connect it to the lock (I was struggling to reach).
The next step is to go to each door, cut off the old door lock connector, and grab the ends of the blue / green cables (with the connectors) so you can wire them into the door, the simply plug them into your new locks.


Fig 6.

IMPORTANT: The rear door locks operate in reverse to the front, so in the front you will connect blue > red with yellow stripe and green > yellow with black stripe, however in the back this will need to be the other way around, so that as the front door locks move up, the back door locks will move down.
Now all the tricky fiddly wiring is done, you can start putting in the new motors, take careful note of the way the door locks operate, the front’s are ok, but the back’s rotate more and don’t move up/down as far (you will understand when you get the doors off)

Note the front doors won’t lock when they are open.

The best way to connect the motors is to first attach the motor to its bracket, then attach the motor to the door lock wire and mark out roughly where you need to drill, the good thing is the brackets are flexible and can be adjusted if they are too high or low, the motors don’t need to go fully up or down, they will simply push as hard as they can in the given direction, as long as they aren’t at the top or bottom of their travel.
Once you have drilled your holes and attached the motors, plug them in and check they work the locks properly (ie the locks go all the way up and down). On a couple of doors I found using some washers to position the locks closer to the middle of the door where required as the motor was pushing the lock on an angle.

Front Door Lock.


Rear Door Lock.

Once you’ve done all the doors you just need to put all your trims and dash back on, press the button on your remote a few times and admire the sweet sound (and speed) of your new locks.
 
 Document Summary
 
Document description: How to swap your OEM central locking system with a Jaycar system
Document written by: kday on 02 2006>, Copyright © 2006 kday, all rights reserved.
Document revised: 02 2006 - Revision 1.0
Document views: 15129 since 02 2006



 

 

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