From memory - If you do fit the BBM, you should be able to remove the A/C bracket, and mount the compressor to the block - which lifts it higher, enabling an EF/EL tensioner - you may find getting hold of an XH tensioner not that easy. Does the EB/ED compressor pulley suit the serp belt ??
I think you might be undercut before you even start . . . http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=57936

Hi mate,
As I have a spare compressor now I may be able to check that at the wreckers. Where exactly on the car is this vacuum actuator located? Either they've been removed from the all vehicles I've looked at, highly unlikely, or dumbass me me is looking in all the wrong places, more likely.
As I'm experimenting on the old block and have removed the aircon bracket, I'll see if it fits to the block later today.
I spoke to Bill about those fans when I was at his place last week and the supply is limited and occasional. It's a great offer and Bill has no middleman [wrecker] to take his whack. As I understand it, Bill will take names and supply them as the fans come in. As he has to sling $50 to get them, I know he's presenting them at cost.
He made me the same offer, but I couldn't wait and these fans are like brand new.
I was basing my thoughts on the more usual $100 or so I see in our "for sales". I'll ring Bill, if he's getting a few coming through I won't bother pursuing it, obviously it's a better deal.
Cheers
Paul

Hey Paul

There is another guy here on the AFF forums that used an EF tensioner.

Here is the link to the thread. JokersEA

http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=105536

Hopefully you might find it useful.

BenJ

BBM VSV:
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=21796

BBM Bits:
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=23503

Vaccy Lines (Troyman's 2nd diagram is the correct one):
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=47736

Hi Ben,
Hope the holiday is going well. Thanks for the link, I've got to love what Simon did, his colour scheme is almost the same as mine. The serp setup pics are worth a thousand words, later I'll PM him re spacer lengths etc.
Thanks again Snap, those links are great, I must have a muddled memory on this matter as I was looking behind the coolant bottle, duh. I'll bookmark this thread so I don't lose all these tips.
Got a Davies-Craig switch kit to-day and a V8 trans oil cooler to replace my fractured one. When it gets cooler, I'll finish off the alternator mounting on the good motor so I can fit it to the car this weekend. I'll also upgrade the main lead to an EF wire, the plug is the same.
Take care,
Paul

To summarize,
FYI, I settled on an EF 110amp alternator. It's larger than the 70amp so no swapping parts.
Here's how...
Ground 1mm off the rear of the lower mounting bracket, as the lug boss on this unit projects just a little too much: ground the bottom of the adjustment arm to clear the alternator body: used a 50mm x 15mm bolt and nylock nut through the top mounting hole still using toothed adjuster: Added a longer belt [min 940-950mm max, 3PK profile].
[I have a min 30mm future adjustment, plenty with these no stretch belts]: Added the larger EF mainwire, left the plug as it's the same.
The serp hub will hold the belt straight in the grooves but I will fit the smaller hub to-morrow when I find my rattle-gun sockets.
All up about 15 minutes work for a 110 amp conversion, just right for my car fridge, thermos and d/lights.
Hope this helps end some of the confusion and unnecessary costs surrounding what turned out to be a very simple conversion. The same procedure applies to the EL Mitsubishi alternator.
I will post a couple of pics to-morrow of the grinder surgery and it fitted to the engine, as it is easier to see now than when it's back in the car.
Cheers
Paulmac

Last edited by Paulmac on Sat Nov 17, 2007 5:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Hey Paul

Sweet as mate.

Looking forward to the photos.

BenJ

Ben,
Get to bed you dirty stop out,
Mac

Here are two quick pix I took when mocking up, my wife has the camera ATM so I can't post any fitted to the "real" engine with the longer belt until later. There is actually more room between the adjustment bar and the alternator than appears, also it is really a proof of concept, the finished bracket is much neater.
Paul

 

 

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Update,
The standard pulley had a tiny clearance issue at its base. A suitable size thin washer sitting on the bearing fixed that. The belt used now and fits perfectly, is a 3PK940 from Bursons, not dear either. The serp pulley worked just fine, but I'm not sure I'd trust it on a long trip at highway speeds.
I just added the EF power cable to the terminal on top of the EB cable and attached the other end to the positive bat post as this is where the EB2 cable seems to end up. The control plug is the same, just in a different position. After the Koala Park day I'll get to the autolec to make sure nothing else needs urgent upgrading. If it does, I'll post it here.
Paul

Hey Paul

As you have now made several highway trips. have you found the setup using the 3 ribbed belt to be safe?

BenJ

Hi Ben,
Yes, no issues at all with the 3PK940 belt and EF pulley. The engine's also been over 5K rpm a couple of times as well. The ridges are the same spacing and torsion holds it straight.
Paul

The ridges on the pullys have a different pitch from eb to el. if you actually sit the eb belt into the el pulley and have a look you can see that it doesnt sit right down in the groves. This will soon chew out the belt... Trust me i know. To do the conversion properly you need to change the pulley from the one off the 70amp mitsu and put it on the el alt, and with the alternator off remove the lower bracket off the block and with a hacksaw (so you cut it straight) cut 5mm off the front of the bracket where the alt mounts to, this allows the alternator to go back far enough to make the alt pulley and the harmonic balencer pulley line up. Grab the top bracket and grind about 3-4mm off the bottom section. Then grab a bolt that will fit through the bracket and alternater and weld another smaller bolt to the head of it... this way you can put the bolt in through the back and still have your tentioning nut on the front with a nut on it to lock it in and you can tighten it with out needing to hold the bolt head (which is impossible to get to). Then fit the lower bracket back to the block but when you fit the alt to the bracket put a 3\8 washer at the rear of the bracket between it and the alternator so it still tightens up ok. then fit top bracket, tension the belt, tighten it all up, plug in all power cables (which are the same just different locations but the wires reach) and away you go 100amps are now all yours!

Thanks for that optional way of fitting it Flash but as you can see a few posts above, it's all finished.
It sits perfectly straight, no welding, full adjustment, only the top bracket was ground and the lower rear bracket eased by about 1mm, no washer needed, full access to the top bolt and nut [both sides].
If you look at the pictures above, on a spare block, you will see all the points I mention quite clearly. It took about 15 mins and 1 tool to do [not including spanners].
I had the 3PK pulley on but took it off as it touched the housing a little, the EF pulley has been on for over 2000klms so far with no unusual sign of wear on the belt. The engine has been run up to 5200rpm without the belt showing any signs of wayward movement and the car regularly runs at freeway speed.
I regularly check the alignment and wear but so far all is fine. At least 12 Fordmods members checked it out at the Koala Park AFD and no-one noticed any mis alignment, in fact the main comment was how straight and smooth it ran with the EF pulley on it.
So after 15 mins of actual work 110 amps was mine and although different to how you did it i believe it was also properly done.
Cheers,
Paul

Ben,
Heres a few more pix, don't take as much off the top rear part of the bracket as I did.
The camera distorts the angles somewhat, but the belt lays straight enough along the bracket straight edge.
Paul

 

 

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