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How to re-torque head bolts? 

 

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 Post subject: How to re-torque head bolts?
Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:46 pm 
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Hey guys,

What is the correct way to re-torque head bolts? Do you just torque them up to the right specs from where the bolts is at? Or do you have to loosen it off a bit the re torque it?

Have tried searching but havent had much luck, only found out not to retorque them if they are TTY but i dont know if mine are TTY as there aftermarket

Only reason i ask is cause i have recently done a headgasket change along with getting the head skimmed and now over the past few weeks the head is slowly starting to leak down the side of the block again. Hasnt even been a month since i removed the head too

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:55 pm 
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All I6 headbolts are TTY, so there is no need to retighten.

I'd say something must have gone wrong with the gasket change. Bad head shave. Block not flat. Faulty gasket. Incorrect torque on bolts. etc, etc.
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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:01 pm 
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there is no such thing as a re torque on these motors its done right the first time then thats it... any hoo its 40nm with a torque wrench starting from the centre and going out in kinda of a spiral then its a further 90 degrees in the same sequence

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:02 pm 
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Thanks for the quick reply arm79

Yeah your probably right, im guessing its either the bolts are cheap s**t or the head isnt completely flat.

Im pretty sure the gasket is on correctly and done up to the speified torque steps, 40nm then 90 degrees etc. Used a permaseal gasket which are pretty good so ive been told

Oh well i'll pull the head off again and see how it goes from there

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:07 pm 
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Quote:
there is no such thing as a re torque on these motors its done right the first time then thats it... any hoo its 40nm with a torque wrench starting from the centre and going out in kinda of a spiral then its a further 90 degrees in the same sequence


Yeah, thats exactly how i done it up. Thing is the car was perfect for the first week no sign of a leak whatsoever but then all of a sudden last weekend i see a spot of coolant sitting on the ridge thing on the side of the block near cyl #2 and today i can see another coolant tail running down near cyl #5.

If it gets any worse i think its time to take it off the road and really start working on her :twisted:

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:10 pm 
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hmm s**t happens maybe head or block needs a skim

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:15 pm 
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The other possibility (or one of 2 I have for you), and ive seen it before is the 40nm is not 40nm. If you have some grit in the block, or the head doesnt pull down all the way, some bolts may not be set to 40nm straight away. Sometimes you have to go over each bolt 3 or 4 times to ensure thay are all at 40. For instance, you pull tighten one of the middle most bolts, then tighten the bolts either side, but you've lessened the torque on that middle one. Might have gone from 40 to 20 for example.

Other case may be that the dowels weren't properly round. You when you put the head on, the dowels caught on the head and it didnt pull down properly, giving false readings. I've seen that before too.
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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:16 pm 
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Did you refill it with coolant straight away or did you run it on straight water for a few hundred kms?
Take this oppurtunity to put an AU gasket in I reckon.

Get a straight edge and check block and head too, head should still be fine after the skim if you take it off cold and do the opposite of the torque sequence when you remove it.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:21 pm 
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The coolant holes are pretty close to the head edge on that side.
They need to clean up okay after skimming, as any corrosion pitting, etc may let coolant travel between the head gasket and head towards the edge.

Those ports may be that corroded that no skimming may correct it, only alloy weld buildup and reskim may be required. Otherwise, source another head in better condition.
As mentioned, prep work is very important, cleaning the block face, etc.

A mixed blessing may be is that the engine only losses coolant, without it mixing with the oil, so you can still drive, just top up water, and run with the coolant tank cap on half done up. So this buys you time to source a solution.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:23 pm 
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explain this filing with water first

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:43 pm 
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Quote:
Did you refill it with coolant straight away or did you run it on straight water for a few hundred kms?
Take this oppurtunity to put an AU gasket in I reckon.

Get a straight edge and check block and head too, head should still be fine after the skim if you take it off cold and do the opposite of the torque sequence when you remove it.


Just refilled with coolant straight away. have heard about running it in with water but have never done that before so wouldnt wanna try it without knowing :?

You wouldnt believe the cost an AU gasket over here in NZ. I think ill get my uncle to send one over from Brisbane soon.

So far the car is running fine, havent got any coolant in the water or vice versa so thats good, just this leak on the exhaust side which is getting to me. Got the head skimmed and replaced the gasket becasue of this in the first place and now its happening again :evil:

I'll rip the head off sometime in the holidays and have a good look first tho

And thanks for all your help guys. Greatly appreciated.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:52 pm 
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did you fit new head bolts when you did the change?? if you re used the old ones that will be your problem..


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Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 6:19 pm 
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Yep fitted a new set of head bolts, not too sure on the brand or anything as there aftermarket. Didnt even say if they were TTY bolts but next time ill get the genuine ford ones

 

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