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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:01 am 
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^^^^Good point - the 'goose' has a separate code, so he probably didn't turn the wheel.
Nigel wrote:
You should probably note that like TPS Sensors, if they have dirt in them they become non-linear : you might read the correct resistance, but a small bump will change them off the scale (and then the ECU goes into limp-home mode).
So we've given no definitive advice on how to know for sure if the trans select pot is at fault.
If we assume reverse lights work okay, and the engine starts in park or neutral - How would you rule the Neutral safety switch out ?????
We also don't want to swap it with another.
What would you do ???

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:14 am 
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The only advice I have here is swap for known good (that is, beg, borrow and steal!). See if the problem goes away.

While I think about it - another solution in the past has been to spray some contact cleaner (or wd40) into the contacts in the two gearbox connectors in the engine bay - they sometimes get corrosion/other crap in them and cleaning them/lubricating them can make the problems go away.

Ive had two faulty Selector switches. The problem is that its not on/off - its a fairly small resistance so they do go "intermittent" rather than reliably failed :(

Problem is almost always made worse by playing manuals (shifting the auto manually)
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:29 am 
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luthor wrote:
green car wrote:
Engine on ignition on
411 - base idle speed irregularity
521 - power steering pressure switch(open circuit)

Did you "goose the throttle" and turn the steering wheel during this test?

No i couldnt hold the test light floor the throttle and turn the wheel at the same time.
So the wheel never got turned half a turn,how much difference will that make in the accuracy of the codes?
Could this have made the short circuit of the ps switch code appear?

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:20 pm 
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green car wrote:
luthor wrote:
green car wrote:
Engine on ignition on
411 - base idle speed irregularity
521 - power steering pressure switch(open circuit)

Did you "goose the throttle" and turn the steering wheel during this test?

No i couldnt hold the test light floor the throttle and turn the wheel at the same time.
So the wheel never got turned half a turn,how much difference will that make in the accuracy of the codes?
Could this have made the short circuit of the ps switch code appear?


Yes, that's why I asked, both of those codes may disappear if you do the test properly.
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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 5:15 pm 
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When i checked the base idle speed as it says in the book it was at almost 900 rpm,which was out of the 600-800 range of ok so i adjusted it to 720rpm as the book says.
So the base idle code appeared because the idle was too high.
A new pressure switch is only 15 bucks so ill just replace that.
I will be rechecking the codes with the full procedure and ill go from there.

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2008 6:42 pm 
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green car wrote:
A new pressure switch is only 15 bucks so ill just replace that.

snap0964 wrote:
If you turn your steering wheel with the engine idling, and the revs increase, then the PS s/w is okay.
Replacing components willy nilly will waste money - your call though.

 

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97 EL Futura S/W: LPG, Alarm, LED int Lts, Trip Comp, F/Lane Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl, T5 Conversion

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Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 6:15 pm 
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After owning the ef for 8 months and having it go into limp home mode countless times, its finally fixed.
It ended up being the s1 solenoid, so i got the trans flushed as well and all seems to be going well.
Thanks for all ideas and help, cheers.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 7:33 pm 
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whats the s1 solenoid do and where is it?? my nf fairlane does a strang thing at a 100 on the freeway the D on the dash will turn on and off and the revs will go from 1800 to 2200 for about 5 seconds any help would be great.

 

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