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| luke111 |
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Has anybody tried this?
I have an EF on straight gas, I was thinking about moving the CAS or the toothed wheel on the balancer to give an extra 5deg of advance. I want to do this because gas likes more advance down low but less up high. I figure that the knock sensor can retard the timing if it pings up high in the revs. Any comments/suggestions? I found this post i think it will work if I can get enough movement out of the CAS. http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=21793 *Moved from V8 section by Damage* |
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| twr7cx |
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Last edited by twr7cx on Tue Feb 13, 2007 5:39 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| MacGyver |
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If you pull the CAS you can see it can be easily modified. One bolt hole is elongated the other is standard round. Pop the metal stud out of the back and use a drill of appropriate size to elongate it.
Just be careful when drilling. If you are not careful and square you could make the air gap too small and run the risk of the CAS hitting the toothed ring. cheers Scott
_________________ If it doesn't fit, jam it. If that doesn't work use a hammer. - Engineers Motto |
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| xr8ute |
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Your talking about a 6 cylinder EF right?
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| luke111 |
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yeah i have sent a msg to a moderater to move this topic.
sorry. |
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| Macca |
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luke111 wrote: yeah i have sent a msg to a moderater to move this topic.
sorry. Done. ps. I have NFI if this would actually work, worth a try but.
_________________ 93 Ford Maverick LWB automatic petrol guzzler (gets stuck where Deli doesn't, big pumpkins |
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| rushed |
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i have been told this cannot be done, as it only goes in one way, BUT, the mod that was said above sounds like it *might* work.
would be interesting to know. |
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| AU99 |
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would be interesting to know cos this would be the same on AU's as well
_________________ 2003 BA Falcon Egas Taxi Pack - XR Replica |
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| WhiteKnight |
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Looking at an AU six (at least) it appears that the actual sensor fits between two cast bosses which the bolts attaching the unit screw into.
Also to move the timing by 5 deg you would have to move the sensor by about 8mm and given the space available would probably be impossible to do. |
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| NFGhia |
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Moving the CAS or as Ford call it the CMP sensor (CaMshaft Position sensor) wont do anything for your timing as its only there so the EEC knows which Cycle No.1 one cylinder is in.
The manual actually states that the CMP sensor can be set anywhere between 5° BTDC and 45° ATDC. The CKP sensor (CranKshaft Position sensor) is the one that the timing is derived from but you can't go adjusting that as the EDIS CPU needs to see the missing tooth at 60° BTDC so it can send the correct PIP signal to the EEC which has the timing table and outputs a SPOUT signal to the EDIS CPU which then fires the appropriate coils. Pretty much the only way to alter the timing is to use a piggyback CPU to read the PIP signal and output a reprogrammed SPOUT.
_________________ The TORQUE Monster project begins!
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| MacGyver |
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Yes, but as we said, by moving the Crank Angle Sensor (I like to call it CAS) as I mentioned above by elongating one of the holes (as one is already elongated) you can move it a bit one way or the other. Now the effect this will have is to move the reading of the 60 degree missing tooth either retarding or advancing. This will have the same effect as advancing/retarding a dizzy. The ECU will 'think" that it is getting a reading at 60 degrees but it is really at say 65 or 55 degrees. This then filters on a 5 degree advance or retard of ignition.
Doesn't seem that worthwhile for me to do as I have the Ticky LPG ECU which has already advanced the timing for my purpose, but it might be fun to get a little bit closer to the 'edge'. cheers Scott
_________________ If it doesn't fit, jam it. If that doesn't work use a hammer. - Engineers Motto |
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