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| slammeb |
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Just quickly the sims are different width. You would 100% know if you put a 14 mil with an 11 mil..
They look completely diff side to side so if they looked the same don;t worry there isn't a differernt thickness |
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| wild-el |
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nar me and my dad just pulled the original shims out and put two in.it didnt reset it self because i tried starting it a day later and no change.so what would i need to do to reset the shims just pull the rocker gear back off then pull the shims out clean em up then put them back? when we bolted it back up i noticed that every second rocker (the little arm thing that swivels dont no what its called) was sitting lower than the other?we just pulledevery thing off then put it baack together just put extra shims in
_________________ EL xr6,standard a** au motor,hi-tech headers, 2 1/2inch red back,,Tikky kitted and wingless,Black GT-P's,on ultra lows and still too high |
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| XRfairmont67 |
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wasnt there a billet and a regrind cam available from wade?
only the regrinds need the extra shim |
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| slammeb |
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Wade wont do billet anymore as there's non available. They would have known price wise what they were getting anyway
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| TimmyA |
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If it cranks like there is no compression did you dial it in right?
You definitely dialled it in at TDC and not 180 degrees out (TDC only occurs on every second crank revolution)? I doubt the shims would be holding valves open because you have to fit an extra shim... its not an option... Sounds like you've messed something else up...
_________________ 93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread |
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| phongus |
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slammeb wrote: Wade wont do billet anymore as there's non available. They would have known price wise what they were getting anyway OP bought it off a member...could have been a billet since it is second hand. Then again seller wouldn't have included shims. wild-el wrote: nar me and my dad just pulled the original shims out and put two in.it didnt reset it self because i tried starting it a day later and no change.so what would i need to do to reset the shims just pull the rocker gear back off then pull the shims out clean em up then put them back? when we bolted it back up i noticed that every second rocker (the little arm thing that swivels dont no what its called) was sitting lower than the other?we just pulledevery thing off then put it baack together just put extra shims in You reset the lifters not the shim. Pull the lifter out, push a nail into the ball bearing and the lifter should collapse. Then put them back in in the collapsed position. Should reset itself then. Also make sure the shims are put in the right way and that the lifter housing is cleaned properly...to make sure the broken retainer plastics aren't stuck in there. Also clean the lifters if there are some retainers on them.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| arm79 |
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phongus wrote: Also make sure the shims are put in the right way Ah yes. If that top shim is not in the right way, it will push the lifter out another 2mm. Is anyone starting to feel that clashing sound of valves meeting pistons.
Last edited by arm79 on Mon Jan 31, 2011 2:08 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| Johnson stroker |
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did the cam gear go back into postition in the keyway when you put it back together?
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| JOSE |
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get a workshop manual or research the proper method for shimming the HLA's, there should be a gap (i dunno what size though) between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of a correctly shimmed COLLAPSED HLA, most of us on here just half a*** it though and let the HLA's sort themselves out.
whats the likelyhood that youve got the cam out of phase with the crank/pistons? if the chain has jumped a lot of teeth on the crank sprocket or if youve got it 180degrees out on the cam sprocket it might act like your describing (but again i dont know if thats easy to do on a falcon engine) best bet is to pull the rocker cover off, and use a manual to set the timing up again properly (ie crank at TDC1 etc etc)
_________________ Because i can. |
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| arm79 |
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JOSE wrote: get a workshop manual or research the proper method for shimming the HLA's, there should be a gap (i dunno what size though) between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of a correctly shimmed COLLAPSED HLA, most of us on here just half a*** it though and let the HLA's sort themselves out. .4 to 1.1mm, but its measured at the lobe. Not the valve stem top. |
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| JOSE |
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arm79 wrote: JOSE wrote: get a workshop manual or research the proper method for shimming the HLA's, there should be a gap (i dunno what size though) between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of a correctly shimmed COLLAPSED HLA, most of us on here just half a*** it though and let the HLA's sort themselves out. .4 to 1.1mm, but its measured at the lobe. Not the valve stem top. see if id gone and got my workshop manual i would have known that 
_________________ Because i can. |
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| wild-el |
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4 or 5 shims where on back wards would that of made any difference? i pulled them all apart and some of the pushers are abit squashy is that normal?
_________________ EL xr6,standard a** au motor,hi-tech headers, 2 1/2inch red back,,Tikky kitted and wingless,Black GT-P's,on ultra lows and still too high |
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| krisisdog |
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cam timing has to be out, if you dont have the shims in or right it will just rattle and break s**t later on, it wont stop it from starting.
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| Deff |
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Did you solve this at all? It sounds EXACTLY like my issue. I've had front off engine twice to confirm no teeth had jumped.
Just can't solve it! When timing is set I check the cam and it is exactly how it should be according to pic's and advise given. Even chucked a standard cam on with just orginal 1 shim but yeh. |
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| wild-el |
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Hey yeah guys I solved the problem I just took the extra shim that I put in I took it out cos both the shims that were in there were the thicker ones.cheers for all the advice guys:)
_________________ EL xr6,standard a** au motor,hi-tech headers, 2 1/2inch red back,,Tikky kitted and wingless,Black GT-P's,on ultra lows and still too high |
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