kinda missed the point if you are still asking those kind of questions.
falcons use manifold pressure as a reference. which means when you change cam, there is a different manifolds pressure given for a certain RPM and TPS , so the fuelling becomes incorrect.
the larger the cam and more narrow the LSA the more lower revs needs work tune wise.
it would still require you to get a hi stall for a large cam, chip or not.

OK i get ya now, thanks man!

Don't forget guys when you fit a stall converter you have to up your trans line pressure.
You must fit a shift kit to do so. A stall converter loses line pressure therefore will burn your clutches in your trans.
When fitting a stally you must have a shift kit fitted, a trans cooler or a LHM if using a std. ecu or a J3 chip with LHM instaled.
My personal opinion is if you drive your car everyday don't get one.
I instaled a wade 977B cam with my std. converter & the engine was hunting. I got told it must have a stally. So i got a Stage 2 more stall 2500-2800 rpm & reco'd the box at the same time.
Didn't fix the problem. Then i got the j3 chip & fixed the hunting problem.
I drive my car everyday & lost heaps of power under stall speed. Also with a stally you gain more torque sooner in the rev range but loose power top end. All the engine builders, dyno operators & T.I Performance will tell you.
The std. converter has a stall speed of approx. 2000 rpm anyway.
I feel that the std. converter would have give'n me better driveability in everybay (traffic) & more power top end.
In saying that i'm very, very happy with the performance of my car & stally but just lost that everyday driveability.

i had my shift built into the box when i had it rebuilt and running a 3000 hi stall
3000 was needed as my cam comes in at 2300, so when racing the car launches at 2800 right on power and torque band.
And i use it as a daily driver no probs (yes it's alittle rough but nothing bad)
yes you will lose abit of top end power but make up for it in the torque!

ford-racer46.... What is it exactly that you want from your motor? One minute you want turbo or forced induction, next minute you want the lot with the lot but in an NA setup (read here: ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/re-build-for-supercharging-t91337.html). Do you actually want a motor or do you just want friends?

Have you got any mates with turbo, supercharged or NA setups? Ask em to take you for a spin so you can get a sample, then take your pick and stick with it. And remember to set realistic goals.

Anyway back on topic.

Torque converters are the Automatic transmission equivalent to a centrifugal clutch. Stall speed is the max speed that the motor is allowed to turn whilst the car is held stationary. And that does not mean holding it with a foot brake, as a well setup converter will easily overcome the foot-brake at or near stall speed. Only way to truly stall a car up is with a trans-brake (especially if its turbo). And before you put a trans-brake n your wish-list just hold that thought for a few moments as Adelaide doesn't have any drag strips (the only place a trans-brake will be of any use).

Again, back on topic.. again.
When you are travelling at a low speed (under 25km/h) and you take your foot off the accelerator and then smash it again. The rpm that the engine revs to before you feel the car start to pull is the flash stall speed. This is a better indication for selecting a converter on a non trans-brake equipped car. If the flash stall matches the peak torque rpm of the engine then the car will be a rather potent street weapon.

As for cam's. You can have a cam that is lumpy everywhere in the rev range (and utterly useless for anything apart from its intended design purpose). Its called a pro stock cam

Being a fixed geometry item, camshafts are compromise items. You can't have your cake and eat it too. Lumpy basically means gutless down low and powerful up high. The lumpier the cam, the more gutless it is down low whilst it pulls harder up top. But its more involved than that. Read phillyc's post a few more times and get the books he mentioned. Its the only way way you are going to learn how engines work. Pimply faced keyboard warriors only know so much before their knowledge plateau's and they pump you full of the crap that you want to hear.

The problem i had is i dunno what works were! im trying to peice it together for a setup that suits me, from what you all say i have learned enough and now understand the basics of different applications, like you say i cant have my car sound like a V8 and go like stink! i cant have top and bottom i must comprimise, i also need no if i want tubo or charge before i can even think of cams, compression, and other aspects of my engine.

im looking at a 3000 stally that apparently has normal lockup.. will it flash to 3000rpm when i put my foot down off the line? or does it need to have the brake engaged to build up the stall? kinda confused about this

needs brake to build up stall. and if it's a mocky 3000 it wont stall to 3000!