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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:15 pm 
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krisisdog wrote:
Okay, but have you upgraded all the under bonnet wiring?
A Cap draws power whilst the car is off too, so it can drain the power if you leave the car sitting for a while.

The CCA stands for cold cranking amps, a deep cycle battery would be the go first as they are generally much more ie >750cca.

Most Alpines are fairly efficient amps, far better than Rockfords and the like. My mono requires an 80amp fuse, but only has a 50 amp fuse in there at the moment, as in run at 2ohms. Only gets warm as well, never even near hot.
My other amp is an Alpine 4ch with a 40amp fuse, but only 2/4 channels are being used, so its only drawing a small current, <15 amps.

With a 100+amp alternator, there will be very little gain if you upgrade alts.

If, after you upgrade your earths to at least 4g, and add at least one more, upgrade your alt power cables and pretty much anything that carries current, your lights still dim, then maybe your alternator is in need of a reco.
ok well the amp fuse is an 80A fuse but no wirin under the bonnet has been upgraded.. only the new wiring from the amp is new. so the ground from the amp is 4 guage but your saying to upgrade the wiring from the battery earth am i right?? also judging from what you have said about the capacitor it will continuously draw from the battery until its drained??

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:23 pm 
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Well the cap draws power until its fully charged basically, and then stops, so after bass drops it recharges itself.
If left for a while the charge will slowly dissipate, and it'll try to constantly keep itself fully charged. It wont kill your battery... as such, but its like a leach.

And yep, upgrade all under bonnet wiring. add a run of 0g as an earth if you battery terminals allow for it.
That includes the run to the block, the pissy little run to the coolant surround you can upgrade to 8g if you want, or, as I would/will, run more earths elsewhere.

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:42 pm 
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krisisdog wrote:
Well the cap draws power until its fully charged basically, and then stops, so after bass drops it recharges itself.
If left for a while the charge will slowly dissipate, and it'll try to constantly keep itself fully charged. It wont kill your battery... as such, but its like a leach.

And yep, upgrade all under bonnet wiring. add a run of 0g as an earth if you battery terminals allow for it.
That includes the run to the block, the pissy little run to the coolant surround you can upgrade to 8g if you want, or, as I would/will, run more earths elsewhere.
ok thanks for that help very much appreciated

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:45 pm 
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No worries mate.
I like your car, props for the 5spd. Hows it go with the extractors and exhuast? by the KW figure a fair bit harder..

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:47 pm 
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krisisdog wrote:
No worries mate.
I like your car, props for the 5spd. Hows it go with the extractors and exhuast? by the KW figure a fair bit harder..
yeah goes well with the 5 speeder under it. exhaust and extractors make it go ver well and it goes better on fuel if its driven right which is a positive

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:48 pm 
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Yeh thats the way. How much you pay for the full zorst, engine to tip if you dont mind me askin?

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:51 pm 
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krisisdog wrote:
Yeh thats the way. How much you pay for the full zorst, engine to tip if you dont mind me askin?
i got a real good deal on it actually. was 700 for thw whole lot. 460 for the pace's fitted and about 250ish for the exhaust

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:53 pm 
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Thats not bad aye considering Pacies rrp is like $450+ by itself, and most zorst's are >$300.

Notice any diff with the el intake?

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:14 pm 
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Like I said early on in the thread you should upgrade the ground from the battery to the body as well as the engine to the body as well as the power c able from the alt to the battery.
These are often overlooked and are just as important as anything else.....

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:49 pm 
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krisisdog wrote:
Thats not bad aye considering Pacies rrp is like $450+ by itself, and most zorst's are >$300.

Notice any diff with the el intake?

not really any diff no.. i got a 3" intake too but i cant tell the diff so its mainly for looks..

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:50 pm 
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outlawxr6 wrote:
Like I said early on in the thread you should upgrade the ground from the battery to the body as well as the engine to the body as well as the power c able from the alt to the battery.
These are often overlooked and are just as important as anything else.....

so how will upgradin the power cable change things?? other than allow it to flow more current through it.. the alternator wont pump out more with bigger cabling will it??

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:05 pm 
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It'll just let the current flow through easier. Fatter cables = less resistance.

Basically, upgrade every earth/power cable under the hood to at least 8g, and if its already 8g, then 4g, etc.

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:35 pm 
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Less resistance = less voltage drop = less dimming...
Easy!

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 12:18 am 
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outlawxr6 wrote:
Less resistance = less voltage drop = less dimming...
Easy!


Yeh that too.

Also less heat = less resistance, etc etc.

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 9:12 pm 
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sweet. thanks for the help guys

 

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