Here's a few 'finished result' pic's of the boot install in my EF below, camera flash made the carpet look all funny.. Nothing special, just a low budget install..

False floor (with pop out panels for spare wheel and fuel pump access) and side walls made in 12mm MDF, sub box built with 18mm MDF, 1.8cu ft internal volume, 3" flared round port, tuned to ~35hz. Pioneer TSW3001D4 subwoofer powered by a Soundmagus DK1800 monoblock running 1000rms @ 2ohm. Jaycar fused distro block (2ga in, 4ga to mono, 8ga out to front stage 2 channel amp) and a 30x SMD white led strip boot light to illuminate s**t properly at night.





Couple of weekends worth of work involved, with lots of trial and error, but well worth it in the end. Pumps pretty well too

now that looks good . now you can see how i started out with mine and the end result is really good

Now when i get the install in my grey EL redone it will look completely different , as now its got a gas tank in there so the subs will be some where else .

Hell yeah, thats gotta be one of the better MDF installs i have seen, looks bloody good mate!!

Cheers fella's .

MRE-50L, the idea behind mine pretty much came from seeing your progress earlier in this thread, it looks great man!! Looking forward to see what you come up with next for the EL.

I think for the next install I'll have a go at using fibreglass and do something something similar to what you have Fairmont_03_5.4, with some new subs (most likely a pair of IDMax12's) angled out from the sides in sealed glassed enclosures with some decent amp's on display mounted on the rear wall.

heres mine

some more pics in my car domain link in my sig

 

 

Attachments:

resized1.jpg [ 196.65 KiB | Viewed 305 times ]

at least post the video you're playing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZ3Ibp9LQPM

I tell ya what, if you can make an MDF install that looks that neat you should have no problems with fiberglass. Only problem with fiberglass is its so time consuming.

Here are some of the latest pics on my install, just putting on the bog now so the sub boxes will be painted soon, then its time to build the AMP Rack. This is after 4 solid days of sanding and bogging after work.

 

 

Attachments:

P1000561.JPG [ 84.71 KiB | Viewed 273 times ]

P1000572.JPG [ 194.52 KiB | Viewed 277 times ]

P1000574.JPG [ 156.55 KiB | Viewed 267 times ]

P1000567.JPG [ 137.12 KiB | Viewed 280 times ]

P1000580.JPG [ 246.13 KiB | Viewed 298 times ]

Here is another look at my install, it is all DIY and has taken a few years to perfect

Source: Pioneer
Front Stage: Focal Polyglass 165 V1 http://www.focalaustralia.com.au/polyglass.html
Front Stage Amp: Audio System F2-500 http://english.gttrading.it/easysite/sc ... 3E500&pg=1
Subs: 2 x Image Dynamics IDQV3 4+4ohm http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/product ... duct_Id=18
Sub Amps: 2 x Audio System F2-500 http://english.gttrading.it/easysite/sc ... 3E500&pg=1
Batteries : 2 x Optima Yellow Top D34 http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/Produ ... owTop.aspx
Sound Deadening: Dynamat Extreme, Sika Boom, Flashtac

i started with the Dynamat and put one bulk pack in the front doors one in the boot and another in the rear doors and around the car, the parcel shelf has had Flashtac applied to stop some rattles also. The subs were loaded off the boot but it was flexing the sides and the spare tyre well too much and outside it sounded crap, so i turned the box around and fire into the cabin. I found that if subs pointed at the seat the bass was less boomy and didn't rattle the bumper anymore.

The audio system amps are rated at 1250 WRMS into 2ohms for a total of 2,500 WRMS of class a/b power . The crossover frequency is 100hz on a 48db/oct. Front splits see 250WRMS per side and this drives them well beyond there limits without clipping. All the wiring in the engine bay has been beefed up and a 6 point 4ga ground kit has been hooked up. block grounds are 0ga and the wiring coming from the optimas to the power and ground distros are 0ga with a 0ga earth to the chassis. 2ga connects the amps to the distro blocks. wiring to the subs from the amps is 8ga and the wiring between the boot mounted crossovers and the front mids and tweeters is 12ga. Distro blocks and fuse holders are stinger and stinger pro.

Subs are in a double skinned and reinforced box made out of 18mm MDF, the box is ported . false floor is made out of 18mm MDF and the sides are 16mm. Front doors needed a bit of a trim to fit the 6.5" mids and the tweeters are mounted on the dash.

 

 

Attachments:

75763_1633695596832_1069943520_31739849_4100268_n.jpg [ 60.48 KiB | Viewed 255 times ]

got quite a bot of inspiration in the last few months to do something like this, so started few days ago and this is what its looking like after bout 4 days.



custom made box, bout 90 litres. holding 2 infinity reference subs. which are both powered by, for the time being, a kenwood 1000W mono block. + 4ch infinity reference amp on the way, 75RMS x 4
floor is finished, walls need cut outs for the amps, sub box is almost complete, just need the back panel and liquid nail it together, then all gets carpeted.

that looks good , would you a better effect if the subs where inverted ? im just querous

There's a few issues to consider.

Aesthetically, the baskets/magnets may be ugly.

Technically, inverting the subs changes the size of the box (makes it larger, because the 'body' of the sub isn't filling that space), affecting the tuning of the box, and therefore the sound it makes. May be for the better or for the worse. Depends how good the box design was in the first place.
Also inverting the sub, means you have to invert the siring too, or the subs willplay backwards, and may be out of phase with the rest of the system, some poeple don't notice the acoustic effect (or it may be negligible), in other cases, changing the phase of my sub changes if it sounds like a sub in the boot, or blends perfectly with the mid-bass and front stage drivers up front (sounds like it's up under the dash - which is an amazing sound when done right).

Inverted, the subs take up more boot space. May or may not be important.

exactly right, couldnt have put it better. plus when subs are inverted, they dont always perform the best, depending on the sub.
got a progress pic
sub box and walls all carpeted, all that needs to be done is the floor and upper parts of the walls carpeted and all will be sweet

almost done, just bought a 4ch infinity amp, picking up tomorrow.
so gotta re do the right-hand wall plus all the wiring. but wont be done for a few weeks as i've just started yr12.

Changed again. The whole install it Diy

Source: Pioneer
Front Stage:
Tweeters: Focal TA-243
Midrange: Dynaudio MD-140
Woofers: Jaycar 10" PA speakers
Front Stage Amps: 2 x Audio System F2-500
Subs: 2 x Image Dynamics IDQV3 4+4ohm
Sub Amp: Audio System F2-500
Batteries : 2 x Optima Yellow Top D34
Sound Deadening: Dynamat Extreme, Sika Boom, Flashtac

There is a perspex window that goes over amps but i need to sort out new perspex as the old one got scratched.







Large magnet of door woofer made it hard to install any closer into the door without cutting steel.



1500 CCA of batteries in the boot.

Go toughened glass. Perspex will always scratch, it's just so soft, if you try and clean it with any dirt on it, even the wiping action will scratch it. Most people I know with 'glass' in the boot, is actual glass not perspex any more.

Nice install, and components BTW.