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Subs have stopped working. 

 

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 Post subject: Subs have stopped working.
Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 2:00 am 
Getting Side Ways
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well got in the gli tonight and headed out of southlands shopping centre. got onto pinetree gully road and a few weird beats from the sub and then they just stopped working and the power light is off. the wires are all connected to the amp still and to the battery.. the fuse isnt broken in the middle could it still possibly be broken?

otherwise its deck out to check the remote wire i guess :P
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:44 am 
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I'd say ur amp has s**t itself if u reckon the wires are ok & fuses are alright. What amp u running ????

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:33 am 
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what's the specs for your amp and sub. Agreed with pulling the head unit out and check the remote on the back of the head unit.

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 12:19 pm 
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Fuse on amp itself ok?? Otherwise remote wire or possibly earth/ground wire loose??

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:06 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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remote wire has 12 volts.

how can i test the amp?.

agreed the ground wire cos that was the dodgyest bit of the install.. it wasnt quite long enough. im at work atm so will go up to the car when the other guy gets back and check the amp model. otherwise will be checking the ground sunday. if the grounds off and im driving round theres no concerns for safety is there ? no ground = just no power?

fuse on amp .. theres a good point forgot about them :D will check.. im hopeing 1 is dead. but the 1 in betweeen the power is seated behind the back seat and cant see it broken. should i just be looking for the metal bit in the middle snapped?
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 3:36 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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clairon apx1300 is the amp
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:12 pm 
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gli wrote:
remote wire has 12 volts.

the 1 in betweeen the power is seated behind the back seat and cant see it broken. should i just be looking for the metal bit in the middle snapped?


If it's a standard type fuse they can be a bit dodgey. They have been known to blow under the metal caps at the ends, making at hard to see. I kept having problems that I couldn't figure out , turned out to be a dud fuse even though it looked ok. Best way to check is with a 12v test light or multimeter, both before and after fuse, just to rule it out.
As for it being behind the back seat, the main power fuse should be as close to the battery as possible, preferably within 15- 20 cm of cable length at most away from the + terminal. The whole point of the fuse is to blow in case of a short circuit ie. if the power wire comes into contact with an earth point leaving the shortest amount of wire live as possible.

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 7:18 pm 
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If you have the remote signal present and power to the amp, you may have had a voltage spike on the remote wire which has blown out the detector inside the amp for remote triggering. From my experience (Starting to get a bit dated I might add)the remote inputs on amps aren't well protected internally and are susceptable to damage from voltage spikes which a fuse is useless to protect against.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:40 pm 
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cleaned the battery terminal.. all good
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