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budget turbo of I6, hoestly what did it cost you??? 

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:37 am 
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Have a look at the threads in the Forced Induction section,most every thread is a help my turbo is fooked thread.
Spend the money and do it right first time.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:44 am 
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My initial build cost under $2k.

and that was over 2 years ago.. given the prices now you'd be able to do it cheaper if you were smart.

ofcourse mine was 2nd hand parts and a DIY install.

turbo was 2nd hand.
stayed on car for 2 years running 6psi - 180rwkw

spent $1200 for replacement turbo/manifold (larger turbo and high mount manifold), sold old stuff for $800

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:46 am 
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badcooky wrote:
Have a look at the threads in the Forced Induction section,most every thread is a help my turbo is fooked thread.
Spend the money and do it right first time.


think logically about it.
would you start a post saying 'HEY MY TURBO WORKS AWESOME'

the whole point of the forums is to get help with issues, if things are working perfectly.. you won't post.

 

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FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw
DTHWGN - EA GL Wagon, LTD Interior, Satin Black, 5.0, Turbo
RACER - EF Futura , 5.0, 5 Speed
PROJECT - 83 Thunderbird, Lowered, 18" Billet Wheels
DAILY - BA Fairmont Ghia 5.4 3V

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:50 am 
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also... why buy a manifold and wastegate new?
they're pretty reliable items, even the cheapo wastegate's tend to do the job fairly good.

i can understand buying a turbo new, as they do have issues if treated bad.
but if you know what you're buying and know what to look for then 2nd hand turbo's can be had nice and cheap.

bush bearing Garrett T04's can be had cheap, and work perfectly fine on a 4L.
even 2nd hand BA Turbos can be had for around $1k.

Seen plenty of 2nd hand manifolds selling for a few hundred bucks.

cooler piping kits are about $250 deleivered (not exactly the best to use, but cna do the job)

$150 for a cooler

$150 for oil lines.

if you're a true DIY'er then you could give galapogos' J3 chip a bash for a safe tune.

 

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FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw
DTHWGN - EA GL Wagon, LTD Interior, Satin Black, 5.0, Turbo
RACER - EF Futura , 5.0, 5 Speed
PROJECT - 83 Thunderbird, Lowered, 18" Billet Wheels
DAILY - BA Fairmont Ghia 5.4 3V

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:34 am 
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Then expect more my turbo is fooked threads.
Pay the money ,do it right.

 

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Raptor V-clutched lightweight not intercooled,no tranny cooler,no worries.

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 9:57 am 
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LAst three turbo kits I've had I've made up from rummaging through the wrecking yards. In the US I had a 94 Honda Civic that we turbo'd for s**t and giggle. All up, $575 and it's still running daily after 3 years.
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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 10:07 am 
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I guess its all luck when u get 2nd hand parts.

If anything just wait and buy good 2nd hand gear if your planning to be a long term project.

Myself i would prefer brand new gear as i know i have warranty and support from who i purchased it from.

Also 6boost offers life time waaranty on his manifolds from cracks and all, how can u go wrong. Obviously he make a good product and stands behind it.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:29 am 
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There you go.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 11:58 am 
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bout 10 grand , maybe a tad more as i wanted things done right and so it was good enough for a engineer to be pleased when inspection time for getting it legal comes..

also replaced stress items on motor that were ok even when we took them off..


im with the spend the $$ and do it right brigade...


ive read too many dodgey or cheap turbo conversion threads and i didnt want to be another one of them

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:00 pm 
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EFFalcon wrote:
My initial build cost under $2k.

and that was over 2 years ago.. given the prices now you'd be able to do it cheaper if you were smart.

ofcourse mine was 2nd hand parts and a DIY install.

turbo was 2nd hand.
stayed on car for 2 years running 6psi - 180rwkw

spent $1200 for replacement turbo/manifold (larger turbo and high mount manifold), sold old stuff for $800


You must have a pretty average turbo or manifold if you got the both for under $1200? my manifold alone was worth $1200.

The thing everyone forgets to mention is all the little things that add up super quick too.
how about a good fuel pump = $200
what about a good rising rate reg if its on a stock ecu = $200-$300
24lb injectors $90 second hand, $240 reco
a turbo cam (if you want it all to work better) $200 - $350
how about exhaust? if done your self about $300 including muffler, cat, and bends, if not $500-$600 for a 3inch from a exhaust shop.
moving the battery to the boot, about $150 including heavy cables and box.
braided oil lines $150
silicon joiners at $30 - $80 each
hose clamps or intercooler clamps $5 each
air fuel ratio gauge $80
New colder spark plugs $30
gaskets
fittings
vacuum/pressure lines

And then you have all the turbo gear to add up, piping, intercooler, manifold, turbo and so on.

It all adds up pretty quick, you do the maths. And thats all just on a stock ecu.

Under $2000 and a reliable setup..... bull s**t.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 2:43 pm 
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FLASH wrote:
You must have a pretty average turbo or manifold if you got the both for under $1200? my manifold alone was worth $1200.

The thing everyone forgets to mention is all the little things that add up super quick too.
how about a good fuel pump = $200
what about a good rising rate reg if its on a stock ecu = $200-$300
24lb injectors $90 second hand, $240 reco
a turbo cam (if you want it all to work better) $200 - $350
how about exhaust? if done your self about $300 including muffler, cat, and bends, if not $500-$600 for a 3inch from a exhaust shop.
moving the battery to the boot, about $150 including heavy cables and box.
braided oil lines $150
silicon joiners at $30 - $80 each
hose clamps or intercooler clamps $5 each
air fuel ratio gauge $80
New colder spark plugs $30
gaskets
fittings
vacuum/pressure lines

And then you have all the turbo gear to add up, piping, intercooler, manifold, turbo and so on.

It all adds up pretty quick, you do the maths. And thats all just on a stock ecu.

Under $2000 and a reliable setup..... bull s**t.


The manifold was a snort tuned length manifold, turbo is a T04e.
2nd hand ... as i said, why buy a manifold new... other then cracking they're fairly reliable!

i'm aware of how it adds up... thats the joy of getting a 2nd hand kit.
gaskets/bolts/clamps/joiners/flanges etc all add up... but when buying 2nd hand you often get those as part of the package.

most people already have a 2.5" exhaust anyway, which is enough for a low boost setup, currently got 225rwkw on a 2.5" exhaust here.

don't need i move the battery, i havn't.
joiners can be gotten cheap if you know where to look.
i paid $80 for ALL of my joiners, and approx $2 a clamp (decent T bolt clamps too)

its all about doing your research first.
sure, if you go to snort, buy a $4k kit, then go buy everything at retail at autobarn, then go and get some random workshop to install it its going to cost you a bunch.

 

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FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw
DTHWGN - EA GL Wagon, LTD Interior, Satin Black, 5.0, Turbo
RACER - EF Futura , 5.0, 5 Speed
PROJECT - 83 Thunderbird, Lowered, 18" Billet Wheels
DAILY - BA Fairmont Ghia 5.4 3V

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:44 pm 
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So if you haven't moved the battery where is your pod mounted? straight on the turbo? so your sucking in 800 deg exhaust temps and still making 225rwkw?
Also its illegal to not have a air filter in a box.

What boost level are you running to make 225rwkw? stock ecu?
In your first post you say you made 180rwkw, what else did you upgrade to make the 225? just turbo and manifold? i doubt it :?

Gaskets as part of a second hand package? used gaskets? :?

Feel free to tell us all where you get the numerous silicon joiners you need for $80 total, id like to know.

I mean i had allot of stuff lying around too that i used for my setup, but not everyone does, so to say to everyone you can do it for under $2k is bull.

And as i said in my first post on this topic, you didn't loose interest, your first setup wasn't great as far as i can tell (fuel issue?), so now you have upgraded. Are you still under you $2k bench mark?

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:57 pm 
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for under $2k is bull

what a load of crap, its not what you know its who you know, if u know someone who is good at welding go hit them up, i would tell you to join a site that has alot of budget builds but you would be one of them dooch bags who will say that your car is better than everyone elses
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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 3:59 pm 
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FLASH wrote:
So if you haven't moved the battery where is your pod mounted? straight on the turbo? so your sucking in 800 deg exhaust temps and still making 225rwkw?
Also its illegal to not have a air filter in a box.

What boost level are you running to make 225rwkw? stock ecu?
In your first post you say you made 180rwkw, what else did you upgrade to make the 225? just turbo and manifold? i doubt it :?

Gaskets as part of a second hand package? used gaskets? :?

Feel free to tell us all where you get the numerous silicon joiners you need for $80 total, id like to know.

I mean i had allot of stuff lying around too that i used for my setup, but not everyone does, so to say to everyone you can do it for under $2k is bull.

And as i said in my first post on this topic, you didn't loose interest, your first setup wasn't great as far as i can tell (fuel issue?), so now you have upgraded. Are you still under you $2k bench mark?


I have a pipe running under overflow bottle, next to battery and into the guard, so no... not stupidly hot air.

however, when the 225rwkw was run on the dyno, the pod was on the end of the turbo.
so go figure.

225rwkw @ 11psi on stock ECU running LPG.
i went from 6psi to 11psi to make up the difference in power.

If the turbo isnt seperated from the manifold, dump pipe not disconnected from turbo, why replace the gaskets?
also... if they're metal shim gaskets they can be reusable.

I got the silicone joiners through a bearing supply company, not the pretty blue ones you buy on ebay/autobarn but they do work.
i also got the hose clamps from there..
probably helped that i didnt need any silicone bends or size adapters, as they're the most in cost.

however, as mentioned before, you can get universal intercooler piping kits for $250 delivered, they come with plenty of joiners and clamps to get you by.

i can easily say to who ever you want you CAN turbo your e-series for $2k.
just becuase you can't doesn't mean its not possible.

Its all about scouting for bargains, and not rushing it.
i was gathering parts over about 8months and snapped things up when they were cheap.

I'm not the only person to do it cheap either..
I've seen a number of AIT setups go for under $1500, which are generally fairly complete and can go straight on.
you could pickup a 2nd hand bush bearing T04e for $500 to give the setup some more potential.

There was nothing wrong with my first setup, i put the new turbo/manifold on chasing a boost issue, which ended up being completely unrelated to my turbo/manifold combination.
eg. new gear on, still same problem.

as mentioned before, no i'm not under my $2k benchmark anymore.. but what does it matter.
i proved it could be done for $2k, the car run that setup for 2 years before i thought it was time to go better.

Had i not been having some issues with my LPG setup, i'd still be running the old gear.

 

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FALCN6 - EF GLi Turbo, 20" Rims, Air Bag Suspension, Straight LPG, 225rwkw
DTHWGN - EA GL Wagon, LTD Interior, Satin Black, 5.0, Turbo
RACER - EF Futura , 5.0, 5 Speed
PROJECT - 83 Thunderbird, Lowered, 18" Billet Wheels
DAILY - BA Fairmont Ghia 5.4 3V

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Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:50 pm 
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I have seen "j" pipes on stock cast manifolds do a good job as well.

A turbo set up can be done for cheap, but like others have said, legally, reliable and also making decent power is another matter.

 

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