Yea, thanks for that I got a set of Professional products 10600, anodized allum blue + braided lines which are pretty nice from summit:)

Got most of my parts needed for the build, only two things I need now are engine mounts and a new set of custom extractors, Did you guys have any trouble with your engine mounts? I'm having trouble with the 5L ones fitting they are about half a centimeter off from the mount to block. There's a little lip on the block that is stopping the mount from moving the half centimeter I need to line up. I know with the F150's they have a 1" spacer that goes between the block and the mount, but that doesn't work for me either because the dart motor has two coolant line fittings coming out of the passenger side in between the two engine mount bolt holes on the block that stops the spacer from fitting

so i've had a few idea's just wanted to see what you guys thought,

1. TIG up the old bolt hole, weld a metal plate for reinforcement and then drill a new bolt hole
2. cut a bit out of the spacers

what do you guys think?
thanks for your help guys

I might just add as well, i'm leaning towards modifying the mount for the bonnet clearance
rather than the 1" lift from the spacer

427stroker, I would switch to a an EF-L K-member and use mounts from the same because they are much better and stronger than the EB ones. You may gain the block clearance you need at the same time?

Thanks XR9,

I've finished off the build with an EB cross member, in the end I had to slot the engine mount bolt holes about 10mm.

Used edelbrock victor EFI intake which is pretty tall and with the block being an inch taller as well had to cut through the bonnet + brace and reinforce the whole lot. luckily the EB GT bonnet scoop just fits over it and looks normal

Currently at the tuners. i'll keep you guys posted with power figures

No wuckers,

The Edelbrock is a good piece...you'd be in the same boat with TFS anyway....Edelbrock quality is usually higher I find too.
What are you/they tuning it with?

Pete.

Had a Haltech E6x lying around so just used that. tuners are having problems on light throttle at the moment from 0 -30% for some reason. hopefully they can sort it out soon

Thanks Brett but, mine were from an EF/L....only the alternator was from an EB.

Mine bolted straight up. No need to mod. I used an F4TE roller block. Wonder if that made any difference.

Brett

Could be that the F4 block has a different posi for the ground strap boss? Did you take any pics?

Nope sorry didnt. Will get some later this week. Car is not with me, its at SWC's get custom panel work to clear the Box-R mainfold.

Brett

Hi Pete,

Yea I'm like nine months late with this info but as you know I've used an F4TE roller block in mine and I had to nip a bit off the alternator bracket to clear the block.

Had mine going for almost 3yrs now, goes good!

This engine still in Shannons car?

What you up to?

James

Hey Jimmy!

Good to hear it's going well.
Shannon loves the 351 in his...he's always talking about 3rd gear drifting
I'm doing too many projects as usual...
I Got Jill an ED 5.0L Futura....so of course I can't leave that alone
I'm doing a 351w/4R70w conversion to my '93 Range rover and of course the Cougar is slowly progressing. I've also had enough of my tin shed and I'm drawing up plans for a brick shed tall enough for a hoist which will allow me to park 3 cars in.

Cheers,
Pete.

Took these pics of the difference between 50oz 5.0L flexplate and 28oz 5.8L flexplate. Both are 164T and you can see the bigger counterweight on the 50oz job. See the BTR flexplate has AOD stamped into it? The bolt patterns are identical so this means you can use an AOD/AODE/4R70 or C4 without changing flexplates.