|
| CPOCSM |
|
|||
|
Gday all - having issues with the car slow cranking in the mornings...it is a 1991 EB SXR8 on SVI LPG(starts on petrol until at 45degs then clicks to LPG)
Hooked up the multimeter and here are the voltages: Off - 12.69v Acc - 12.65v On - 12.5v but climbs to 12.69v if left for 30 secs Cranking - drops to 9.9v for a nanosecond then to 14.6v as the engine fires... Remains at 14.2-14.6v when running but drops when you put all accessories on and wipers/demist to 13.5v which to me seems within the normal operating range. The alternator is from a 1994 Fairmont V8(Mitsubishi 110amp unit). I think it might be the very cool weather here in Canberra but I am concerned that the starter motor is going on me. If I stop the car then restart it...cranks normally. After a night in the garage - it is a slow crank. What would you be suggesting I look at? The car has done 260k. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| tony.martin11 |
|
||
|
happenes with my au too
_________________ BANNED USER |
||
| Top | |
||
| Troy |
|
||
|
happens in mine too, but think its just the battery
|
||
| Top | |
||
| tony.martin11 |
|
||
|
with the AU though, if i leave it out all night then go to start it at 6AM, i have to jump it as with the EF i can leave it out all night and trust it will start no problems as though the engine was just turned off. What battery do you use? in the au its one with a blue top and yellow bottom and the EF has one of those NRMA batteries
_________________ BANNED USER |
||
| Top | |
||
| EBXR8380 |
|
|||
|
Cold batteries can be like that.. Check all battery connections..
Especially earth side.
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| CPOCSM |
|
|||
|
I heard also from a few of the defence APS I work with who are right into the extreme 4WD-ing that the battery can suffer from "cold battery" which when it was explained to memade sense. I thought about my garage, which is cavernous in that it could fit a couple of Kenworths in it side by side, and figured that the battery is getting cold soak and just a bit sluggish. I figure though I might add a new starter and keep the original as a spare.
Someone suggested putting a blanket on the engine which I thought was a bit extreme 
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| tony.martin11 |
|
||
|
CPOCSM wrote: I heard also from a few of the defence APS I work with who are right into the extreme 4WD-ing that the battery can suffer from "cold battery" which when it was explained to memade sense. I thought about my garage, which is cavernous in that it could fit a couple of Kenworths in it side by side, and figured that the battery is getting cold soak and just a bit sluggish. I figure though I might add a new starter and keep the original as a spare. Someone suggested putting a blanket on the engine which I thought was a bit extreme well at least you get the additional fire  if you can, get hold of one of those blue nrma batteries and see how that goes as my ef has one, leave it out overnight, perfect, start normally if car was just turned off AU on the other hand, like said about has a different brand (century  ) and that f**k needs a jump every morning
_________________ BANNED USER |
||
| Top | |
||
| bbqburner |
|
|||
|
have you checked the liquid levels in the battery cells?
_________________ I enjoy the symphony of mechanical harmony, |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xafalcon |
|
||
|
Take the car into an Auto Electrical shop and have them test the battery with a carbon pile. This simulates electrical load and will tell you if the battery is the problem. Sparkies usually do this for free, hoping you will buy their battery if yours is at the end of it's life.
If it's not the battery or cables, it may be the brushes in the starter. They reach a length where their contact with the comutator isn't very good and it takes more current to start the engine. This appears like a battery output problem.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual Last edited by xafalcon on Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:33 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
||
| Top | |
||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
sounds like it could be a tyred starter motor, and the cold weather just makes it worse??
|
||
| Top | |
||
| lethal EA |
|
|||
|
Same problems here with LPG cold starts, but have found with a jumper pack it will fire in half a turn then with the jump pack off will take 10 or so seconds to start. Seems the ecu is not getting enough juice to fire the engine
Aternator is charging fine and battery has heaps of life left. Need to keep a jumper pack in the boot
_________________ Black ED Ghia |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
lethal EA wrote: Same problems here with LPG cold starts, but have found with a jumper pack it will fire in half a turn then with the jump pack off will take 10 or so seconds to start. Seems the ecu is not getting enough juice to fire the engine Aternator is charging fine and battery has heaps of life left. Need to keep a jumper pack in the boot how many cca is your battery??? |
||
| Top | |
||
| lethal EA |
|
|||
|
Heavy Duty Century 550-560 CCA.
_________________ Black ED Ghia |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| jaysway |
|
|||
|
iv just had a very similar problem with an eb v8 that has 261k kms on it, slow cranking then sometimes no cranking at all, alternator and battery tested fine.
removed the starter motor and tested on the bench to find it was getting jammed up. disassembled starter motor to find the internals full of s**t and 2 of the 4 brushes getting low. cleaned the brush pack with gunwash and an air blower. "adjusted" the 2 low brushes by stretching the springs out slightly. greased the starter gear, reassembled starter motor and is now starting like new. my only problem is 2 of the 4 brushes are low.. does anyone know where i can buy the brush pack for the eb v8 motorcraft starter motor? either from a reputable site in the US or somewhere here in Aus? cheers guys |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| CPOCSM |
|
|||
|
Well I replaced the battery as I was getting the one "click" when I turned the key to start the car. I replaced relays, bashed the area adjacent to the handbrake, tested voltage and the likes - to no avail. I reckon it is he starter for sure asall theother electrical stuff works fine. I reckon the water that leaked onto the starter from the throttle body heating(pinhole leak just before I left on 5 weeks leave...) has caused it to short in some way. I am now going to remove the starter and see what the go is.
On this, how can I connect up to the starter on the bench to test continuity and if indeed the motor will engage at all? I am about to light a fire under it as I am over the poop that is Ford and the dumb, outdated and over-priced parts the factory tries to peddle you... Hooroo |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 23 guests |
