Hey guys...ordered my new cam & lifter last week..should hopefully see it by friday....the specs are as follows:
Comp Cam Extreme Energy
2600-6500rpm
Lift In .565
Lift Ex .574
Dur In 282
Dur Ex 290
Dur @.050 In 232
Dur @.050 Ex 240
112 degree lobe seperation

what you guys recon...

F**k thats alot of lift, what heads are you running?

thats gonna be lumpy as, 232 degrees duration nice

dang thats huge..

im only goin for the 274-degree-on-intake-advertised one..

good on ya mate sounds wild im thinkin of goin comp cams i was w orried about .544 lift be real interested to hear how it goes

ill be going for the AFR 185 Heads or Edelbrocks equivilent..... that cam will evetually be pn top of a 347 bottom end..thats why its so big....

I take it it is a hyd roller.

That cam will be great for street and well suited to to your head choice at your current cubes.
However once you up grade to 347ci you will either have to do some head work to in crease port volume and flow or top end may suffer.
If you havn't got those heads already go for the 215,s or the kiwi pro heads as they are a very good head as well, have heard that the kiwi heads are supposed to be the best SBF street head on the market.
Have seen the porting on them and also elderbrock rpm's and I'll tell you now Kiwi Pro's are way better than Elderbrock rpm's.
The kiwi Pro's are cheaper than Elderbrock rpm's and AFR's last time I seen price's.

I have heard some very good results with both the AFR's.

Off the top of my head your cam spec's will work somewhere around 2500 to 6500rpm.

What other mod's you running as you will also need to make sure your intake and exhaust flows are up flow.
Larger injectors, larger throttle body, more fuel flow, good leads.

If it's Auto it will need some shift improvement and good bands and clutches plus Stall around 2500 to 2800rpm.

Manual race clutch and a few spare box's or pay for a big dollar box.

You will need around 3.5's to 3.7's gears street and if you want the best at the track (drags) 3.9's to mid 4's.

Your cam choice, heads and 347ci's should see you around low 500hp and if perfectly sorted around mid 500hp.

From there with more port work larger cam good injection set up, have a look at Romano's EB and see what can be achieved from the little 347w.

Caution make sure you use main girdle as the factory blocks arn't very strong.

Have heard without main girdle they are only good to 425hp as they start blowing head gaskets and can split straight down the valley.

The older mexican block's have higher Nickle content and are stronger (don't no how much though) and are hard to get and can cost like a grand or more.
SVO and Dart street blocks are inexcess of 3g but good for 900hp-1200hp.

If using factory block get main girdle and half grout fill block as both these mods will stiffen block up and help with cooling.

Hope this has been helpfull and sorry for going on and on.

Good to see you supporting the blue oval and good luck with your power upgrade.
Show the gm's/gmh's/hsv's who is the true "BOSS"

[quote="mrnasty"]thats gonna be lumpy as, 232 degrees duration nice[/quote]

Not for a roller cam but a flat tappet yes.

My friend Jay Goodwin (Menace Capri) Has told me he is running over 800 thou lift Roller.
Now thats wild.

yeah its a hyd roller.....i was told that i should only get the 185's if i was gonna stroke it, and to get the 165's if it was gonna stay a 302 as the 185's would be overkill for the ...im running edelbrock performer manifold, 70mm t/body, 1.7 roller rockers, and 75mm MAF....genie extractors with dual 2 1/2 dumped at the diff.. ill prolly get 32lb injectors and an adjustable fual reg...ive got 9mm Eagle leads with Crane coil and ill get a MSD Billet dizzy..ive got a 2000-2200 stall atm, but dont think the auto will handle the stroker & the BTR's expensive to build tough so a manual is also on the cards (C4 isnt an option as i want an overdrive gear).Ive got 3.45 gears at the moment, and wanna keep em coz theyre good for cruising

Sorry was getting ahead of myself thinking about 392w stroker I was going to build for a td cortina I owned.

Go 185's if you are set on 347ci and that cam and gear ratio as the larger port volume's may cause not as good bottm end power.


The difference between the 165 , 185 and 205's at 500 lift is

Intake 250, 267, 271
Exhaust 185, 185, 231



@600

Intake 250, 282, 292
Exhaust 191, 191, 236

The 205's would suit a turbo/blown car best as they are over exhausted.

The 185's are the most suited to what you have planed as the 165's will hurt top end.

If u look at 185's @600 you can see how good the percentage ratio is(exhaust needs to be 75% of intake for unblown motor).


It would be good to see the spec's on flow for the Kiwi heads to compare.

The cam you have listed is the total lift with 1.7 rockers or 1.6's?

If you can go to 600 lift, the 185's will be at there best.


Also don't know if Canfield heads are still available as these heads made over 300cfm @600 lift and where only $2000 about 5 year ago.

Another option for heads maybe USA Imports as I think they are making there own alloy heads and are quoting some good numbers and selling for around $1600 complete with manley valve's and valve gear.

The best option would be to BOSS it using CHI heads.

Comp and crane are the choice for the cam.

im pretty sure those figures are for use with 1.6 rockers.....

heres a copy of the kiwi protopline 180cc heads flow chart

 

 

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File comment: protopline protopline180cc.jpg [ 47.43 KiB | Viewed 168 times ]

[quote="greg302"]heres a copy of the kiwi protopline 180cc heads flow chart[/quote]


Thanks Greg

As can see these are as good as the AFR's.

The Canfield's are a little better though as the figure's I have are:

@500

Int 286
Exh 230

@ 600

Int 312
Exh 243

I would go the Canfield if still available and go with 1.6 ratio exhaust
This would give a very good flow ratio and allow you to go to a blown setup later if you decided to, but use the 1.7 ratio rockers on the exhaust .

So many options but all will give good streetable power.

With 1.7's lift will be 600 intake 610 exhaust

A mexican block went on eBay a few months back for $300 in melbourne.

I was pretty keen to grab it but did some very serious research prior and the general consensus is that they werent really *THAT* much stronger than the standard 302W block.

hey man if u unsure about goin manual, ive got an AOD in the shed... needs rebuild i think, but theres kickass rebuild kits in the US for em..