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| ToranaGuy |
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markwright wrote: killer skids
 Yep, much fun.
I did one of them out of the side street onto the main road infront of work the other night, (9pm no traffic, industrial area) had it sideways until i was grabbing 3rd.  The next day, the boss said " good on ya, that was a fair effort! ". I work for an IT company btw, not a workshop. My workshop is my shed & driveway.
Anyway, i'm sure we have all been down the road of sockets to use as dodgy spacers! I drove my torana around for 3 mths with a socket " extending " the throw out lever enough so i could get some clutch travel!. As for the not going back to Auto thing, well i've finally sorted my running issues with my ED, which gave up it's manual & is now auto. It's just a GLI i will be getting rego'd as a "bomb" for me & my g/f to drive when either the EB or the Mighty boy are not able to be driven. By bomb it's not a bad car, only 115k kms on the clock, fairly straight now, but a few dints & scratches. I hope i don't have to drive it too oftern, it will be embaressing compared to my EB GT Mockup. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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| stoj79 |
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done my conversion about 4-5 months ago now been real slack in regards to idle. Problem is with the idle switch pluged in wont idle below 1500-1600 rpm with it out i can adjust anywere i like but then in the mornign i have to hold the rev whilst its codl and also if the air is off gettiign sick of constantly adjust the screw on the idle switch need help want to just make it sit o 800-900 with it always stalling. I have the standard ecu still but thermos etc all work fine did the resistor trick for that
_________________ EL Fairmont - GT steering wheel -3.45 lsd - superlows - white line sway bars - xr kit - au11 xr8 engine - 3500 convertor -BA XR8 leather interior - ltd woodgrain - di filippo extractors - trick flow track heat manifold - tfs1 camshaft - twin 2.5 inch system venom cats hooker mufflers - 187rwk |
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
sounds like you havnt done the resistor trick properly. You will find that the wires to use in your car could be different to the document
With a workshop manual you can rule out all the solenoid wires, till you end up with 4 that must be for the resistor trick |
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| TROYMAN |
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markwright wrote: probly somethin to mention..
i had mine all goin well last night and this mornin at work, right down to the end etc everythin good. went to put in the cltch cable and adjust it up... f**k! too long  guess i should mention that an EA(so i assume EB and ED) clutch cables wont fit EF's lol.. so spewin because it was too late to rush out and get one and finish off! have to wait till monday arvo  actually 1988 ea's before 89 had a short cable. but ea from 89 untill el are the same cable.. i found that out when i went to ford to get a new cable.. |
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| phongus |
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stoj79 wrote: done my conversion about 4-5 months ago now been real slack in regards to idle. Problem is with the idle switch pluged in wont idle below 1500-1600 rpm with it out i can adjust anywere i like but then in the mornign i have to hold the rev whilst its codl and also if the air is off gettiign sick of constantly adjust the screw on the idle switch need help want to just make it sit o 800-900 with it always stalling. I have the standard ecu still but thermos etc all work fine did the resistor trick for that
ISC could also be stuffed. Try and borrow someone else's who knows it works. If not wiring might be wrong. phong =P~
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
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| frankieh |
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Does anyone know if there is anyone in WA selling the Mals clutch pin?
If I could get a good look at it, I could probably make one, but if it isn't that expensive, its probably not worth th effort. |
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| ToranaGuy |
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frankieh wrote: Does anyone know if there is anyone in WA selling the Mals clutch pin?
If I could get a good look at it, I could probably make one, but if it isn't that expensive, its probably not worth th effort. I have a feeling the clutch pin is under $100 AUD. I even thought it was posted in this thread somewhere near the start??? Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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| frankieh |
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Yeah, it was... $85.
I wanted to know if anyone was selling them in WA so I don't have to get it shipped and wait for weeks. it looks like a bolt with two thick washers with cutouts.. could probably fabricate one pretty cheaply... really don't want to pull the dash down.. I hate doing that. |
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| arm79 |
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It's a bit more than that. Its starts as a complete metal rod and is turned down to the precise measurements, and a thread applied to one side of the rod.
If you were to copy, u'd need the original pin from Ford, which can be bought seperately for about $12. If your game enough, you could weld it into the box while its in the car. Otherwise, buy the pin. For the stuffing around you making one yourself, ud best just pay the $100 to get it over. And Mal sends everything overnight express, so thats only 2 days in Wait Awhile-land. But then, a pedal box swap is only about 1.5 hours work. So its not that hard if you wanna be cheap. |
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| frankieh |
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Thanks ARm79,
If it really is only 1.5 hours to change over the pedal box, perhaps it is worth doing that... I was under the impression that it was much longer than that. I've read that the manual pedal boxes can break.. do you know where exactly they break? I'd like to re-enforce it before I put it in if possible. rgds Frank |
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| arm79 |
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I can do it in about 1.5 hours... Mostly cos im highly intelligent and capable... F**k modest too..
But depends who you speak to, some will say 2 hours, some will say 8. To get a dash out, I take it out in a whole unit. Radio, PAB, cluster, everything. Tis a bit heavy, but its only 1 console, 11 bolts and 10 plugs. And the whole thing comes out like they put it in at the factory. Installation is simply reverse of removal. The pin is held in by 3 tack welds. Pretty pissy. The manual pedal box itself is exactly the same as an auto, just with the pin welded in. And normally they break by ripping the welds out or twisting the pin in the hole so the whole side of the pedal box rips off. I have a Mal wood pin. And to reinforce it I got one of these 3mm thick steel patio/wood joiners.. You know, a flat wide bar with holes pre drilled. I shaped that to match the side of the pedal box and put that over the pin on the inside of the box and used the pin bolt to hold it on. Put another bolt at the back to keep it straight. Did the job just nicely. |
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| ToranaGuy |
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My peddle box was broken & torn when i bought my organ donor ED, i tapped it back into shape & welded it back together. Have not had any issues with it breaking again, yet. 12mths and lotsa abuse on!
I did however, tear my firewall about 8cm from around the clutch hole towards the brake booster. That's due to the LPG fitter cutting the hole for the wiring right thru fords reinforcing in the firewall. I pulled the dash out, was fixing aircon at the same time, and tapped it back into place. MIG welded it up like the peddle box, and also fit a 100x40x3mm plate down the firewall, so it won't twist & tear again. Since i have done this, i can now feel the peddle box flexing when i'm using the clutch briskly. I should have also re-inforced the peddle box while it was out last time! It's a job i would recommend to anyone, but it's also a job you really need to do with the box out of the car, else you risk heat, fire & weld splatter damage to your car. It was really hard welding the firewall without setting the carpet or the heat liner on the firewall on fire!
Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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| frankieh |
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Interesting..
I'm gonna take a look under my dash tonight.. have to work out what I plan to do.. I have a mig welder myself and can probably make up something to solve all my woes.. won't know till I take a look see. What I don't really understand.. the manuals were the base models, the auto was the upgrade.. why not just leave the same pedal box in both ? rgds Franki |
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| Damo |
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it is the same pedal box. The manual one just has a few extra bits tacked on so to speak.
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| ToranaGuy |
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Damo wrote: it is the same pedal box. The manual one just has a few extra bits tacked on so to speak.
Yes the manual was the base model but almost everyone spec'd the car's up with the auto's at the very least. frankieh, The peddle box is the same as stated, and you will see a hole in the side of the peddle box pointing towards the middle of the car. It's here ford tacked on a extra 1mm or so plate to the side of the peddle box, then stuck the clutch pin thru the hole. If i had of modified mine, i would have made up a 3mm plate of mild steel with a hole in the same spot, and seam welded it to the peddle box. This would stop most of the flex in the box, from the clutch peddle being pressed. The flex is the problem, eventually it leads to cracked / broken welds & torn steel. Cheers ToranaGuy
_________________ I am the ToranaGuy!|74 Lh Torana Turbo|78 Hz PanelVan|86 Mighty Boy Ute|93 EB2 Ghia,GT Mockup,5spd,LPGI,Full Leather|2 x EB Xr8 5spd's|FS [VIC]: Wrecking - Eb XR8 - Parts available |Build Thread|Ebay Items - Ford Parts| |
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