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EF Transmission Problem 

 

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 Post subject: EF Transmission Problem
Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 3:41 pm 
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Hey guys...
now before anyone says anything... yes i did a search and went through 15 pages and couldnt find anything about this so i thought i would ask instead of taking another 2 hours going through the other 15 pages

When changing gears the box has a break between the change, revs up about 500rpm then changes to the next gear with a jolt and thats on normal driving, so i normally lift my foot off the accelerator during the change to minimise the strain if any...
no problems changing down from what i remember 3 months ago but i havent really driven my car for about 14 months since i stripped the interior

Now i know the transmission needs a service but 1 question...

Will a full service (not rebuild) fix this and what would it cost? $300?
I was talking to my dad who used to be a mechanic and he said there used to be bands in the tranny that could be tightened? but he stopped his line of work back around '85-'86 i think, so not sure about new models though
I have a series 1 EF with stock tranny, what can be done?
i think i read somewhere that the series 1 EF had these belts and could maybe be tightened? i heard it changed from the series 2 EF?

only serious replies please, IF POSSIBLE lol

I was thinking of going 5 speed manual if i would have to rebuild the auto

 

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Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 4:25 pm 
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it is probly the what I think is called the S1 solenoid, which generaly plays up and delivery "clunky" gear changes. Be warned it is NOT CHEAP. About $200 by memory. Not changing the solenoid will mean that your tranny will eventualy drop its innards somewhere, usually when you can least afford it :)
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Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 5:03 pm 
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Thanks for the input

i was thinking it might be one of the solenoids but wasnt too sure

if anyone else can add to this would be great

if its only going to cost me about $300 including service, or less because my mum works in the industry and gets parts very cheap, i will go ahead with the service and keep the auto depending on how long it will last.

 

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Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 5:32 pm 
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get the box serviced and get all the solinoids tested.

but dont bother with the auto, GET THE MANUAL!!!

 

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Posted: Sat Aug 19, 2006 5:53 pm 
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Well if that fixes the problem i'll see how i go, having my car off the road for like 14 months is very bad, i was so tempted to drive it even with no interior and only a dash with 2 front seats LOL

i did a couple of times amazingly i was never pulled over by any police even though they were parked next to me at a few sets of red lights

well anyone know what i would be looking at roughly to get a manual box installed?

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 1:54 pm 
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To get a manual gearbox in you will either be looking at your wallet or the underneath of your car. :D Maybe both.
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Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 4:30 pm 
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money at the moment is not a problem, so far adding everything together i have spent about $12000 in 14 months not including buying the car (its funny how things add up)

so if manual gear box is the way to go i will have to do it depending on the cost because obviously i wont throw money where its not needed and seeing as my dad was a mechanic, fitting it isnt a problem either

seeing as i am spending more money on visual things (paint, leather interior, sound system) rather than performance that is why i would be holding back on a manual and just fix the auto
also because i want to go on a long holiday around USA next year as well

so if its just the solenoids ill have that fixed easily but just wanted to ask on here first because i dont have my car at the moment to take anywhere for a service or a quote

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 4:47 pm 
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Manual is definately the way to go if you can afford it.
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 Post subject: It's the S5
Posted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 5:14 pm 
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My EL did just the same as yours.
It is the S5 solinoid, and of course it's the most expensive one.
All the others S1,2,3,4,6,7 are $75 but the S5 the big silver one at the back is just under $400.
It craps out all the time, not a big job, just drop the pan,and with the ford torquedriver undo the mount and replace it, do the filter and oil while your'e there, a couple of hour job on ramps.
Or pay the man for a service and get him to do it as well, any half desent auto mech should know this problem.
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Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:01 am 
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thanks

just the sort of answer i was looking for

i thought i read it somewhere on here once but i couldnt find anything about it

ill see how much i can get the part for, prob wait till my parents come back in 6 weeks from overseas but obviously i cant do much till i get my car back anyway

thanks for the info guys

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:15 am 
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throw in a shift kit, its a kinda qwik fix till you get your manual box put in, will only cost ya about 10 bucks in bits for the kit

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 1:45 am 
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i was thinking about that too

i might do it when im wiring up the speaker and amp wires seeing as i have everything out of my car at the moment

ill just have to look up the doco on how to do it, seemed simple enough when i read it last

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 9:16 am 
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S5 is the likely candidate, the Diagnostics may be able to pin point it. Is it worse when cornering, may be just low in fluid.

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:10 am 
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just to save you the hassle of looking for it here it is

 

 

Attachments:
shiftkit overview.pdf [113.25 KiB]
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shiftkit ef-au6.pdf [48.76 KiB]
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 Post subject: Re: It's the S5
Posted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 12:29 pm 
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kiwi in oz wrote:
My EL did just the same as yours.
It is the S5 solinoid, and of course it's the most expensive one.
All the others S1,2,3,4,6,7 are $75 but the S5 the big silver one at the back is just under $400.
It craps out all the time, not a big job, just drop the pan,and with the ford torquedriver undo the mount and replace it, do the filter and oil while your'e there, a couple of hour job on ramps.
Or pay the man for a service and get him to do it as well, any half desent auto mech should know this problem.


You got stitched if they charged $400 for the S5. I've had it replaced in both the EA & the EL. A little over $300 total including service, labour and rear bush replacement.

 

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