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| daggy082 |
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I have about 2-3 cm's of play in the steering wheel in my EF2 wen the wheel is centre'd. Would could that be? I was told tie rod ends and probably ball joints. What do u guy reckon?..
Cheers
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| revcore |
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Do you notice any clunking in the steering?
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| daggy082 |
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revcore wrote: Do you notice any clunking in the steering?
No but wen i turn right into a driveway there seems to be a bit of play and clunk then...
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| joolz |
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First check would be the Steering rack bolts. Followed by steering colum bearing (at firewall) rack ends and tie rods.
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| Waggin |
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I had this issue in my EF and now my AU and both times the play was in the steering column uni joint. 10 minute job in a i6 ... a little tougher in a V8
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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| keithParker |
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Waggin wrote: I had this issue in my EF and now my AU and both times the play was in the steering column uni joint. 10 minute job in a i6 ... a little tougher in a V8
I didnt think this could be changed? ie the whole shaft had to be changed.... I hope I'm wrong, cause I need to do mine. How much did the parts cost you? |
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| joolz |
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I would doubt if its the steering shaft. But in the small chance it is a new complete one will set you back around $300-$350
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| One Drone |
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Yep, intermediate shaft. V8 and I6 are both easy but they are different.. I have a spare I6 one here actually.
_________________ There are 10 types of people in this world. |
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| snap0964 |
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keithParker wrote: I didnt think this could be changed? ie the whole shaft had to be changed.... I hope I'm wrong, cause I need to do mine. Unfortunately, you are correct - the unis can't be changed on their own - the intermediate shaft is changed as mentioned, which isn't hard - loosen the clamp bolts top and bottom, may need to spray some wd40 or rostoff, etc to help loosen it. Creep mark top and bottom, so you can align the steering wheel properly.
The top spline does vary between the E series models, so go for your particular model - length does vary too. Cheapest is to go for a second hand one - check it for play though. Your existing shaft can be checked on the vehicle - weight on the wheels engine off, get someone to rock the steering wheel, while you watch the lower uni joint.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| dcstraight |
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joolz wrote: First check would be the Steering rack bolts. Followed by steering colum bearing (at firewall) rack ends and tie rods.
I know this is digging up the past a bit here - but having issues with my steering assy - have traced it down to (hopefully!) something at the firewall - joolz (or anyone for that matter!) - do you know where this steering column bearing at the firewall is precisely ? Have been slaving away under the car fixing a few things...this one is seeing me bruised, bloodied and frustrated to say the least 
Do I need to take the booster out to get to it ? Any help appreciated guys
- Steve |
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