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Shock Absorber 

 

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 Post subject: Shock Absorber
Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 7:08 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Ride: BA Ford fairmont

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

hey guys my shockers are squeaking everytime i go over a bump so thinking of changing them. but wasnt to sure of the one to get. my set up is 235/45 18" wheels and i think its pedders sports ryder springs installed.
also is there a tutorial or instructions sumwhere i can get my hands on to change them.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 9:34 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BA Falcon XT

Location: Smithfield
NSW, Australia

Is your Car an AU, BA, EL ???

You WILL need a pair of spring compressors and some time. Access to a hoist is advisable and maybe a good Workshop Manual? When you do remove the shock/spring setup, MARK the position of them with white paint and then remove the top mount brkt when you have compressed the spring and make sure you can put the NEW ones in relative position to the OLD one. Check and make sure the top spring rubber is good and replace if needed.

Monroes are ok as Shocks go. Like other suspension parts you can buy dearer ones. King Springs or Peddars will be able to help you with some advice on good springs and you might get a good price from Supercheap as well.

No matter what you do, make sure that the shocks ARE the problem and not some suspension bush or? then take care when you do the job and don't use shonky tools or take corner cuts. :)
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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 10:29 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Coming from the rear mate?
Its probably not the shocks, its something to do with the rear brakes.
The pad squeaks on the lugs which bear onto the caliper (where the anti-rattle clips are on the fronts)
You can apply grease to the caliper guide spots where the pad lugs meet.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:18 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Ride: BA Ford fairmont

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

its a ef.
got a jack. pretty sure it the shocks cuz onli does it when goes over bumps n on hot days. thnx for the advice all

 

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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 8:46 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: 2009 FG XR6 Sedan

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

Is the sound coming from front or rear? Normally when shocks are worn its a clunking sound.
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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:05 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: EL fairmont offroader

Location: seaspray
VIC, Australia

Sounds like bushs, not shocks.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:33 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Yep. Id check the sway bar D Bushes.....
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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Thu Mar 05, 2009 6:16 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Ride: BA Ford fairmont

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

how will they look if they are worn or do i just replace em n see if it stops.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:31 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: EL fairmont offroader

Location: seaspray
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A lever can help you find worn, and hence loose, and hence squeaky bushs.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 9:01 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Hi guys, thought id ask here instead of posting another thread. I was told when replacing the rear shockers, that its pretty straight forward. Does any compression on the springs necessary, or do the shockers just slide out from beneath once the have been un screwed from the top ( situated inside the car )

Cheers
Daniel
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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 6:41 pm 
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I personally always take the rear shocks out and put em in thru the top - ie. undo the top mount nut on the shock, then remove the 4 nuts holding the top mount "hat" in place and remove that hat section altogether - then it's easy to get the shock in and out. Got to remove the bottom bolt too of course but that's quite easy even with the car on the ground + wheel on and is total piece of cake with the wheel off.

The shocks will tend to extend if they're gas type but the force is not very great - is easy to keep em under control both taking out and putting it all back together.

Front are a different thing - I always remove the whole strut + spring unit - change the shockie out of the car and put the reassembled unit back in again. It's best to release the sway bar on each side with the car on the ground first, then jack one side, remove the wheel, have another jack handy to use under the outer end of the lower arm - take bit of load with that second jack - ie. lift until the spring starts to compress (be careful at any time to not lift the car off the main jack of course - but you won't be needing to lift it anywhere near that far at any stage). Undo the nuts from the front and rear top arm hinges - ie. on their studs in the engine bay - swing the top arm out and around the spring - you'll be able to hang it clear either to the front or to the rear a bit with a bit of cord or wire etc. - ie. it'll all pivot about on the lower balljoint and the top arm can pivot 360 on the top balljoint - ie. you'll likely end up with the hinges pointing out from the arch - ie. hanging over one shoulder as you carry on. Take care not to load / stretch / break the brake hose!! Undo the lower shockie to arm bolt - use that second jack to move the lower arm to make the bolt slide out - should need to lower it slightly. Finally undo the three nuts holding the top unit in the tower and it'll come out.

You'll need to use spring compressors to do the shockie change - and pay attention to the position of the three top studs in relation to the shockie lower fork so that it'll line up properly going back in - ie. copy the original angle. you can lay the fork on a block of wood or brick so the studs lay against a wall or door and mark their position etc. If you have to you can compress the spring a bit in situ and twist the shockie to get it all to line up - just pay attention to the lower end of the spring staying properly in place (ie. it'll be easier to twist one way than the other without it coming out of position) and that the top seat rubber doesn't get busted / torn. IF you end up needing to reposition it in situ it's best to compress the springs enough that they're not loaded on either top or bottom seats. I suppose you could strap / tie them compressed somehow out of the car and cut them loose afterwards - ie. when you've got it alltogether and lowered to put weight on the springs - making sure they're seated right etc.

Put it all back together and do the other side then re attach the sway bar once the car is sitting on the ground again. Releasing the sway bar makes manipulating the lower arm etc. much easier.

You could even take each unit to a mechanic or suspension place and have them quickly do the changeover. You may have to pay attention to ABS wiring etc. too if you have it.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 7:34 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: albion park, wollongong
NSW, Australia

My rear squeaks too . It's not shocks . Must be the brake pad thing krisisdog said . Isn't bushes as I checked them , but I want to replace all my rear suspensions bushes anyway

 

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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 8:12 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Greenmachine wrote:
I personally always take the rear shocks out and put em in thru the top - ie. undo the top mount nut on the shock, then remove the 4 nuts holding the top mount "hat" in place and remove that hat section altogether - then it's easy to get the shock in and out. Got to remove the bottom bolt too of course but that's quite easy even with the car on the ground + wheel on and is total piece of cake with the wheel off.

The shocks will tend to extend if they're gas type but the force is not very great - is easy to keep em under control both taking out and putting it all back together.



Thanks mate

So, with the rears there is no need to take the whole spring + shock assembly out? Just undo the necessary bolts and slide the shocker out
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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 9:55 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: albion park, wollongong
NSW, Australia

That's how I didn't mine undo the bottom bolt and undo the 4 bolts holding the black hat thing down.
Then take off the black hat thing off your old shock and put it on the new shock .

Try puttbg bilsteins in. f**k their hard to push in. I made the mistake of tightening the top 4 bolts and tried to push the shock up to get it in the bottom hole but I couldn't . The shock wouldn't push in.

So I had to undo the top 4 bolts and tighten up the bottom bolt then the top.

But if you can push the shock in easily u wont have to worry .

 

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El XR6 Turbo
Dark Agents,Sunroof, bilstein shocks, 6000k HIDS, 329 mm slotted rotors, twin pot calipers , Climate Control, GarrettT04 turbo,log manifold, crow turbo cam, microtech lt10c, 42lb injectors , 044, surge tank , T56 , rebuilt bottom end , alloy plenum .

Aiming for 300 rwkw

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 Post subject: Re: Shock Absorber
Posted: Wed Jul 27, 2011 11:15 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Age: 29

Posts: 83

Joined: 16th Sep 2010

Ride: BF MKII Xr6

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

My car squeaks on bumps all the time, it's getting absolutely ridiculous. Sydney city roads are absolutely crazy, and are used too much to repair often. I'm trying to find out what this squeaking is, as it's on EVERY bump (not speedhumps though).

Also when taking off, after I drop the handbrake and start going, there's a squeak/whine that sounds like it's rotating, as the wheels turn I assume, anything anyone?

Cheers
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