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| jvangent |
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Ive been on here for some time now, and some of you may have seen some posts of what ive done to the Flacon since i first got the car when i was 15. |
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| Saphiric |
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Hey mate...keep up the good work! It's all a bit of a learning curve...even the pro's have got to start somewhere. If I may offer you some advice...be very gentle when sanding back near edges...try to avoid rub throughs...sometimes it just can't be helped...but if it doed happen, make sure its feathered out properly and this part should be primed. Also you said that you were bogging up your w/washer holes...you will need to reinforce underneth this to stop it flexing and your bog cracking out after you have sprayed your colour on. I hope this is of some help to you. Hope to see some finished pics up here soon. |
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| B Bear |
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Good to see you have build thread now dude |
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| jvangent |
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Saphiric wrote: Hey mate...keep up the good work! It's all a bit of a learning curve...even the pro's have got to start somewhere. If I may offer you some advice...be very gentle when sanding back near edges...try to avoid rub throughs...sometimes it just can't be helped...but if it doed happen, make sure its feathered out properly and this part should be primed. Also you said that you were bogging up your w/washer holes...you will need to reinforce underneth this to stop it flexing and your bog cracking out after you have sprayed your colour on. I hope this is of some help to you. Hope to see some finished pics up here soon. hey thanks mate, i was worried about the bog cracking so ill take your advice and put something behind it, and yeah as you can see i do have some rub through. i got some 2 in 1 primer/bog stuff that i will spray over it before i spary the colour on. so hopefully that will help as well =) |
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| jvangent |
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B Bear wrote: Good to see you have build thread now dude I like the fairmont bonnet, looks a lot better ! I was going to swap mine round with an EF but cause of the EL I have the bonnet, lights and lower bumper all differ and plus I had to buy a whole car.... it was cheap but not enough room to store another one...anyway. I also love the little water nozzle mod cheers mate! yeah i was lucky enough to get the bonnet cheap from the bloke in adelaide, as well as the lights from a mate. i think in total i spent 250$ on the swap over including the paints and etc. and i just used the falcon bumper and cut it out alittle to fit the grill. =) but i think it will look great once done! |
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| jvangent |
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Just a update, ive also been looking into making a custom tail light with inbuilt LEDs. |
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| chris sieclay |
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really the squirter holes should be welded by someone that knows what theyre doing so the bonnet isnt warped, but if you're going to use filler those repairs havnt been knocked down enough.. i can tell that by the size of the repair.. its going to fall out quite soon.
_________________ South Australia.. Heaps good. |
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| fordnut1988 |
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hey mate when you did the mirror tint did you have to remove your existing tint and if so how did you go about it?
_________________ 1996 EF Ford Fairmont , EL Chaser Cluster , Sony Explod Headunit , 300w Fusion 6" Rear Speakers |
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| jvangent |
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chris sieclay wrote: really the squirter holes should be welded by someone that knows what theyre doing so the bonnet isnt warped, but if you're going to use filler those repairs havnt been knocked down enough.. i can tell that by the size of the repair.. its going to fall out quite soon. Grind the washer hole area with 36 grade to at least the size of your hand and tap the washer hole area down a little to give the bog some depth and strength, let the bog go off and grab a hard block with 36 scratch paper and work it down flat.. keep reapplying bog till you're confident you have it flat. with the 36 scratch leave the bog a little high and finish it of with 80 grit.. make sure the bog isnt going to the edge of the paint, notice it has on your repair? If you dont the paint will bite up when you go to paint it and will be an unreliable repair.. feather it all out with 150 grade. 4 coats of high build primer, give it a week then knock it down with a hard block and 400 or 600 if you prefer. PS: get the primer on there with your coats dont be shy.. let it flash off between coats. thanks heaps mate! i think im going to tap it out and using a 105 epoxy resin and a 205 hardner with 405 filler, ive used this stuff before with boats and a mate suggested it would be a good way to fill in large gaps as it sticks to metal and can flex but still have the same strength as bog. so im wondering if i could use that instead? and will it effect my primer and paint in anyway? |
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| jvangent |
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fordnut1988 wrote: hey mate when you did the mirror tint did you have to remove your existing tint and if so how did you go about it? yes i removed my original tint, i just used a heat gun and slowly peeled it back. it wasnt as hard as i thought. there was some glue still left on the window but i just used alittle bit of petrol to get it off =) |
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| jvangent |
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Got alittle gift today from the Father =) |
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| green machine |
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Hey mate just watch the green pads as they are a hard pad and if to much heavy breaking they will warp the s**t of of your rotors!
_________________ custom airbox,custom intake |
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| chris sieclay |
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jvangent wrote: chris sieclay wrote: really the squirter holes should be welded by someone that knows what theyre doing so the bonnet isnt warped, but if you're going to use filler those repairs havnt been knocked down enough.. i can tell that by the size of the repair.. its going to fall out quite soon. Grind the washer hole area with 36 grade to at least the size of your hand and tap the washer hole area down a little to give the bog some depth and strength, let the bog go off and grab a hard block with 36 scratch paper and work it down flat.. keep reapplying bog till you're confident you have it flat. with the 36 scratch leave the bog a little high and finish it of with 80 grit.. make sure the bog isnt going to the edge of the paint, notice it has on your repair? If you dont the paint will bite up when you go to paint it and will be an unreliable repair.. feather it all out with 150 grade. 4 coats of high build primer, give it a week then knock it down with a hard block and 400 or 600 if you prefer. PS: get the primer on there with your coats dont be shy.. let it flash off between coats. thanks heaps mate! i think im going to tap it out and using a 105 epoxy resin and a 205 hardner with 405 filler, ive used this stuff before with boats and a mate suggested it would be a good way to fill in large gaps as it sticks to metal and can flex but still have the same strength as bog. so im wondering if i could use that instead? and will it effect my primer and paint in anyway? Ive never used that product mate but if its anything like fibre reinforced resin well then yeah but i'd grind it down a bit low with 36 grade and wipe some bog over the top and do as above.. polyester fillers have a finer finish, i dont like the edges resin compounds leave.
_________________ South Australia.. Heaps good. |
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| jvangent |
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green machine wrote: Hey mate just watch the green pads as they are a hard pad and if to much heavy breaking they will warp the s**t of of your rotors! cheers mate! =) do you know how well they brake under lots of pressure? |
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| jvangent |
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chris sieclay wrote: jvangent wrote: chris sieclay wrote: really the squirter holes should be welded by someone that knows what theyre doing so the bonnet isnt warped, but if you're going to use filler those repairs havnt been knocked down enough.. i can tell that by the size of the repair.. its going to fall out quite soon. Grind the washer hole area with 36 grade to at least the size of your hand and tap the washer hole area down a little to give the bog some depth and strength, let the bog go off and grab a hard block with 36 scratch paper and work it down flat.. keep reapplying bog till you're confident you have it flat. with the 36 scratch leave the bog a little high and finish it of with 80 grit.. make sure the bog isnt going to the edge of the paint, notice it has on your repair? If you dont the paint will bite up when you go to paint it and will be an unreliable repair.. feather it all out with 150 grade. 4 coats of high build primer, give it a week then knock it down with a hard block and 400 or 600 if you prefer. PS: get the primer on there with your coats dont be shy.. let it flash off between coats. thanks heaps mate! i think im going to tap it out and using a 105 epoxy resin and a 205 hardner with 405 filler, ive used this stuff before with boats and a mate suggested it would be a good way to fill in large gaps as it sticks to metal and can flex but still have the same strength as bog. so im wondering if i could use that instead? and will it effect my primer and paint in anyway? Ive never used that product mate but if its anything like fibre reinforced resin well then yeah but i'd grind it down a bit low with 36 grade and wipe some bog over the top and do as above.. polyester fillers have a finer finish, i dont like the edges resin compounds leave. yeah ive never used that stuff with cars or to patch up holes so ill put some more research into it. but i defiantly will grind it down alittle in ether case. thanks for the tips mate! very much welcome! |
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