|
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
there is no reason you cant remove the rod completely, the only problem without it is you cant see if your doors are unlocked or not. ive removed the passenger front and both rears in my ed.( this was because i previously had nl door trims in it)
|
||
| Top | |
||
| revcore |
|
|||
|
TROYMAN wrote: there is no reason you cant remove the rod completely, the only problem without it is you cant see if your doors are unlocked or not. ive removed the passenger front and both rears in my ed.( this was because i previously had nl door trims in it) I thought about removing it altogether but then I don't know how to finish the door trim off to hide any evidence there was ever a sniper button there. For now I'll hunt around for the redish brown coloured rod. Many thanks for all the help/advice everyone.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||||
|
you could always fill in the button holes with fibreglass like i have..
|
||||
| Top | |
||||
| revcore |
|
|||
|
TROYMAN wrote: you could always fill in the button holes with fibreglass like i have.. Thats a very good idea. Hey how did you get the right shade of grey?
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
it was a touch up pressure pack i got from bunnings, i cant remember if it was slate grey or ironbark grey... its a pretty good match.
ive still got the can in my shed...lol |
||
| Top | |
||
| revcore |
|
|||
|
It would appear the white rod was the culprit....I removed it and it seems to be the end of the cycling. I reckon I might do away with the button altogether. I'll see if I can work something out to cover the hole where the button was.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fordnut1988 |
|
||
|
uniacidz wrote: revcore wrote: bry40l wrote: couldnt you unplug one at a time until the problem stops then you find your problem? I'll do that tomorrow and hopefully there is only one actuator that is buggered. My guess is the drivers door actuator. My guess also, usually its one of the fronts. from memeory (which aint good) the drivers is also the master actuator, rest are slaves. i believe both fronts are masters |
||
| Top | |
||
| revcore |
|
|||
|
Damn!!! And here I was thinking I had it beat
 It was working well for a couple of days and now it's upto it's old tricks again cycling away and it never stops in a locking position so now I can't lock the car - Not even with the key because it cycles and always stops on unlock. Thinking now the only way to fix it is new actuators....I'll start with the front 2 and see how I go. It's funny you know, My old 94 ED never had trouble with the actuators nor did my old EB yet heaps of people have trouble with the EL's. If the ED actuators are a direct fit to the EL I might look for good ED ones.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TROYMAN |
|
||
|
actually they are the same actuator for eb to el...
|
||
| Top | |
||
| revcore |
|
|||
|
I went and got a drivers door actuator out of an EF today - Many thanks to sexyr6 (Chris).
I'll put it in tomorrow morning and see how it goes. I'm hoping it is the drivers door actuator that is the lazy one and that this actuator I got today will see the end of the annoying Smartlock cycling.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fordnut1988 |
|
||
|
revcore wrote: I went and got a drivers door actuator out of an EF today - Many thanks to sexyr6 (Chris). I'll put it in tomorrow morning and see how it goes. I'm hoping it is the drivers door actuator that is the lazy one and that this actuator I got today will see the end of the annoying Smartlock cycling. if its a station wagon the boot is usually the coperate and a cleans out of the lock will usually fix this |
||
| Top | |
||
| revcore |
|
|||
|
fordnut1988 wrote: revcore wrote: I went and got a drivers door actuator out of an EF today - Many thanks to sexyr6 (Chris). I'll put it in tomorrow morning and see how it goes. I'm hoping it is the drivers door actuator that is the lazy one and that this actuator I got today will see the end of the annoying Smartlock cycling. if its a station wagon the boot is usually the coperate and a cleans out of the lock will usually fix this I'll clean the lock tomorrow using the air compressor and see how that goes....If it still doesn't fix it I'll replace the actuator in the drivers door and see how that goes. It's funny how a little problem like the Smartlock cycling can really annoy the heck out of you, But it does and the sooner I fix it the better my mental state will become 
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fordnut1988 |
|
||
|
revcore wrote: fordnut1988 wrote: revcore wrote: I went and got a drivers door actuator out of an EF today - Many thanks to sexyr6 (Chris). I'll put it in tomorrow morning and see how it goes. I'm hoping it is the drivers door actuator that is the lazy one and that this actuator I got today will see the end of the annoying Smartlock cycling. if its a station wagon the boot is usually the coperate and a cleans out of the lock will usually fix this I'll clean the lock tomorrow using the air compressor and see how that goes....If it still doesn't fix it I'll replace the actuator in the drivers door and see how that goes. It's funny how a little problem like the Smartlock cycling can really annoy the heck out of you, But it does and the sooner I fix it the better my mental state will become also try unlocking and locking from the boot with the key then try the smart lock |
||
| Top | |
||
| revcore |
|
|||
|
There is a couple of wires coming from the tailgate lock so I unplugged them and everything appears to be working perfectly at the moment....Lets hope it has fixed it permanently (Touch Wood).
I did take a look at the actuator in the drivers door and it has been replaced at some stage. Whoever did it was stupid - They cut the wires and did away with the plug so the wires are joined and insulated with electrical tape. Why on earth would someone cut out the plugs  Anyway, The drivers door actuator appears to be working perfectly and I listened out to see which actuator was the lazy (Slowest) one but they are all in sync with each other. So the tailgate lock wiring that I unplugged may have been the culprit all along. Only time will tell I guess.
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| snap0964 |
|
|||
|
TROYMAN wrote: actually they are the same actuator for eb to el... Not quite, there is a 96DA updated unit that has a spring loaded motor gear and some of the carriage rubbing blocks have been removed. You can actually mod an earlier unit to match.Concentrate on the master actuators - front doors and tailgate.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 46 guests |
