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Power from Auto EL XR8 

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 8:08 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 44

Posts: 503

Joined: 10th Nov 2004

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Ride: NL 347, Landau

Location: Adelaide
SA, Australia

kenny wrote:
I only installed a resistor loop to my IATS (intake air temp sensor)today & I found an easy 15hp for only $15,this tells the ECU the incomming air is 0 degrees c ,therefore more dense and more air in the cylinders so the ECU compensates this by enrichening the mixture. To take total advantage of this mod install H.E.G.O mods to tell the ECU that too much oxygen is passing thru the exhaust (lean mixture) so it also fools the standard ECU into enrichening the mix
This is all you get when installing a chip but you must be careful not to over fuel the engine (keep monitoring you're plugs if not done on a dyno)

Interesting Kenny - Most 5.0 Windsors I have seen on the dyno in standard form have been a little rich to start with - adding more fuel and going away from the stoichometric air/fuel ratio will lose power - not gain it. More power is produced from leaning out your air/fuel ratio but this adds heat and promotes predetonation so normally you find a safe level that compromises power and longivity.
Shane

 

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1996 NL Fairlane Ghia 347
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Posted: Fri Dec 24, 2004 10:53 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: BA mkII XR8

Location: NEWCASTLE
NSW, Australia

MrLandau wrote:
kenny wrote:
I only installed a resistor loop to my IATS (intake air temp sensor)today & I found an easy 15hp for only $15,this tells the ECU the incomming air is 0 degrees c ,therefore more dense and more air in the cylinders so the ECU compensates this by enrichening the mixture. To take total advantage of this mod install H.E.G.O mods to tell the ECU that too much oxygen is passing thru the exhaust (lean mixture) so it also fools the standard ECU into enrichening the mix
This is all you get when installing a chip but you must be careful not to over fuel the engine (keep monitoring you're plugs if not done on a dyno)

Interesting Kenny - Most 5.0 Windsors I have seen on the dyno in standard form have been a little rich to start with - adding more fuel and going away from the stoichometric air/fuel ratio will lose power - not gain it. More power is produced from leaning out your air/fuel ratio but this adds heat and promotes predetonation so normally you find a safe level that compromises power and longivity.
Shane

According to my HEGO'S the voltage was down to 0.2 volts before the mod, but now they're running at 0.4 volts so I will not "play" with the sensors now ,but since installing the resistor loop I find the car will easily wheelspin into 3rd gear in the wet (which we experienced today!)where before it would barely spin from 1st to 2nd. You should have seen my plugs before they were running so lean they were white (not the wrong heat range of plug either) according to the self test there are no faulty sensors either, so I'll stick with this mod as I am without doubt that I made power gains.
I found that in clevo's once you go richer than 13:1 thats when power starts dropping
P.S the resistor also advances the timing quicker to max advance ,maybe that is what I feel?

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2004 12:11 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 38

Posts: 1440

Joined: 7th Nov 2004

Ride: 320kw BA XR8

Location: Adelaide
SA, Australia

kenny wrote:
According to my HEGO'S the voltage was down to 0.2 volts before the mod, but now they're running at 0.4 volts so I will not "play" with the sensors now ,but since installing the resistor loop I find the car will easily wheelspin into 3rd gear in the wet (which we experienced today!)where before it would barely spin from 1st to 2nd. You should have seen my plugs before they were running so lean they were white (not the wrong heat range of plug either) according to the self test there are no faulty sensors either, so I'll stick with this mod as I am without doubt that I made power gains.
I found that in clevo's once you go richer than 13:1 thats when power starts dropping
P.S the resistor also advances the timing quicker to max advance ,maybe that is what I feel?


This method has been done for a while now with wildly mixed results. Without a lot of testing there is no way you will get it correct because there are many other factors involved than just the HEGO and ACT sensors. Unless you get it spot on the EEC will learn its way around the mods you are doing. There are also a large number of cases of, in particular head gasket failures and other damage to the engine caused by this type of mod.
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Posted: Sun Dec 26, 2004 11:49 am 
Smokin em up
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Age: 48

Posts: 248

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

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Ride: FG XR6T

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

I went with TFS heads and 1.7 rockers with a 73mm MAF and underdrive pullies and a dual 2 1/4" cat back exhaust.
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EL2 XR8 Auto 13.64 @ 100.76 MPH with a 2.05 60ft. Now sold!

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Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2004 1:15 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Power: 482 rwkw

Location: Penrith
NSW, Australia

Trick Flow EL wrote:
I went with TFS heads and 1.7 rockers with a 73mm MAF and underdrive pullies and a dual 2 1/4" cat back exhaust.
Image


What inlet and extractors??? TFSEL...

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 27, 2004 9:54 am 
Smokin em up
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Age: 48

Posts: 248

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

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Ride: FG XR6T

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

Stock EL2 explorer inlet and headers.
I used to have the TFS street manifold but swapped it back to the explorer for insurance reasons and got my low down torque back.

 

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EL2 XR8 Auto 13.64 @ 100.76 MPH with a 2.05 60ft. Now sold!

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