I pulled the valve body out of my old BTR this arvo, set it up at my computer desk (house stinks of ATF now). Hooked S1 though S5 up to a I/O board connected to the computer and programmed up a little app in C to shift according to the table I posted above.



I planned on spending some time working out PW vs current for S5 but both my multimeters had flat batteries so S5 is currently on/off only. Going to have to put a bit of work into s5 control and find out how much feedback its going to need for accurate movements. 1st through 4th shifts and back sequences work although the timing will be way off (just programmed a constant 200ms delay between initial and ending state for the shifts).

short and uninteresting vid of it working {DESCRIPTION}

I got someone to help me get it into a car down here so when I get the chance ill head down the wreckers, pick up a factory TCU and use the plug to make an adaptor for the laptop.

hi

LOL " (house stinks of ATF now). " if u get a chance wash the valve body with petrol and leave out side the house for a few days this will eliminate the burnt transmission oil smell and the most of the petrol will evaporate

i wish i had ur back ground , some of my ideas that i have wouldn't hesitate to start some of the electronic projects but this would be a whole new ball game for me

The bug has bitten i see stockstandard , its nice to see you having a go at it cause i think u will be on a winner here.

some of the crappy methods i have seen transmission specialist trying to control the BTr transmission is amazing and the phenomenal amount of money there charging , i thought cars sales men where crooks.

I looked at the Vid clip excellent work stockstandard
keep up the good work , would love to mimic what your doing at ur place just for learning exercise purposes.


cheers

Ive just gone through the 135 page manual for these gearboxes because to be honest its probably the part of a car I know the least about. To summarize what was in there -

As previously posted, S1 and S2 control the gear selection. I was happy to read that the position of these in each gear was the same as what I had worked out, being:

1st gear: Both S1 and S2 on
2nd gear: S2 on
3rd gear: both off
4th gear: S1 on

S3 controls the application of the clutch C1, and S4 controls the front band. Both of these need to be applied in a controlled way for smooth shifting, which is done by S5 controlling the pressure delivered to them while their solenoids are open. The more current delivered to S5, the lower the line pressure. Im a little confused as to how these are used at the moment. In the manual it says the front band needs to be applied while in 2nd and 4th gears, and the C1 clutch applied in 3rd and 4th. But the table above indicates that S3 solenoid (controls C1) is on while shifting into 3rd and the S4 (controlling the forward band) is on during all shifts. Logging what the factory TCU does will tell us how to control it, but I suspect that the solenoids are used for the application of the clutch/band, which then may or may not be held in place by hydraulic pressure depending on the gear.

The remaining clutches C2, C3 and C4 and the rear band (none of which we need to control) receive line pressure regulated by the primary regulator valve. Under light throttle, the line pressure is reduced by switching on S6. Under heavy throttle, S6 is switched off, increasing the line pressure so the gearbox handles the extra torque

Finally, S7 locks the torque converter. On pre-ef 4 speeds, the lockup occurs when in 4th under "suitable driving conditions", which I read as cruise or light throttle. On EF's and onwards and when the gearbox is in economy, lockup occurs late in the 3rd gear and partially disengages for the 3rd to 4th shift. In all gearboxes, the S5 solenoid is again used to provide smooth engagement.

Oh, and reverse requires both S1 and S2 to be on. C3 is locked by hydraulic pressure to reverse the rotation of the output shaft.

I believe the ECU also expects a signal from the TCU. Looks like this signal is 12V to send ECU into LHM, 0V to report a thermistor error, or a 10,20,30 or 40Hz wave indicating the temperature of the gearbox which is used to adjust idle speed.

well done stockstandard

seems u have started some serious work here


cheers

how r things going???

Slowly. Had two journal papers to write in the last month so I havent had enough time to play. All the stuff is sitting on my desk under a pile of papers

I did work out a design for a stand alone board to drive the gearbox without a laptop. Should cost under $20 to build as well.

cool

its like a cheap manual conversion to get you through the time it takes to save up for the conversion

Loving this thread! Keep it up!
Never knew the Ford EEC was so complex...
Check out this site as it has some info on how Ford sets up some of its computer systems.
{DESCRIPTION}
Of particular interest is GUFB Strategy Book (1.16MB PDF)
Time to go and pull and dismantle some Ford ecus...
Cheers

Hi balizticbobo

the site u have posted is a interesting site a wealth of information in there.

post more sites that have electronics info guys anything of interested .

balizticbobo out of curiousty what is ur work background ?

cheers

Currently operate a plasma & oxy profile cutting machine 1.6mm to 100mm
Anyone need some exhaust flanges??? mmm 100mm exhaust flanges.... lol
Did work at a Nissan/Subaru Dealer for a couple of months selling spare parts, manager was a wanker! But did get my hands on a couple of ZD30 turbos... Aside from work, I'm a self taught mechanic, dad was a mechanic, then an ambo, then a farmer, so i've learned heaps from him. Started out working on a mini I got for 8th birthday, got a Suzuki DS80 for 10th birthday that dad bought for $110. We got it going the next day! Bought another Mini, and some 3 mokes. Then went for a spin with a mate in his TE Cortina, had a 3500 stall, 250 cross flow and 3.7 diff gears... Sold mini, and 2 mokes, swapped 1 moke for an XW and 302...
Bought my mates Corty.
I now have 10 cortys, a heap of X series falcs, and I'm now getting into E-series falcons.

I'm fairly technical minded, used to be a nerd... My bro still is...
At home we have a lathe, drill press, Mig, Arc, Oxy set, Bosch Tunescope(4 gas analyzer, ocilliscope, motortester)...
Just starting to get a bit deeper into electronics now, been reading zoom for years. Been reading up on injection for a fer years now. But starting to get a bit more involved cos I want to do some reprogramming on my ED Ghia. And I want to keep the BTR Auto, but change the programming for it.

This site sells some good gear, I now know what i'm saving for...
{DESCRIPTION}
Ostrich and Ford EMU

Would this be able to retune the tranny data in the later EEC4s with this?

Hi

LOL mmmmm what a resume balizticbobo

now that u mentioned plasma cutting machine ( CNC unit i gather ?? )
" Currently operate a plasma & oxy profile cutting machine 1.6mm to 100mm "

can u cut some for me and what sort of money we talking about
ie exhaust flanges E series AU series and BA series
12 mm mild steel
12 mm stainless steel

also for prototype inlet flanges in steel just for now , and later aluminum. in 10 mm thick

also exhaust collector flanges.

cheers

PS: yes www.moates.net/realtime-chip-emulation-c-50 Mr moates started as a group corresponding over the net on ford ECU's and cracking them.
and now his turned it into a small business

Hi

LOL mmmmm what a resume balizticbobo

now that u mentioned plasma cutting machine ( CNC unit i gather ?? )
" Currently operate a plasma & oxy profile cutting machine 1.6mm to 100mm "

can u cut some for me and what sort of money we talking about
ie exhaust flanges E series AU series and BA series

12 mm mild steel
12 mm stainless steel

also for prototype inlet flanges in steel just for now , and later aluminum. in 10 mm thick

also exhaust collector flanges.

cheers

PS: yes www.moates.net/realtime-chip-emulation-c-50 Mr moates started as a group corresponding over the net on ford ECU's and cracking them.
and now his turned it into a small business

What exhaust flanges are you after, the one that bolts up to the cat?
Or the one that bolts onto the head.
I've already cut one exhaust flange... so i'll dig the part number out and cut a couple out when no ones looking...
Can only do mild steel 350grade ATM as thats all we stock at work.
{DESCRIPTION}

I'll see what I can do...

Yes flanges to the head on the exhaust side

and

also flanges to the head of the inlet side

would be interested in the cat side but larger ones to increase the hole to 3 inch and a circular flange with four bolts pattern setup

Mild steel will have to do for now , what thickness do u have there

cheers

Forgot to add this...
{DESCRIPTION}
A little pricey though. But if it was a little cheaper...