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Cams for a reason 

 

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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:42 pm 
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tis better in this instance if you cal the tyre diameter first as shown...

So input current RPM (@ whatever speed you choose) your diff ratio, top gearbox ratio and get your tyre radius...

Then go the other way with the calc tyre radius, new diff ratio, final gearbox ratio and speed you wanna check)

Cheers,
Tim

 

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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:44 pm 
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timmytimtim wrote:
tis better in this instance if you cal the tyre diameter first as shown...

So input current RPM (@ whatever speed you choose) your diff ratio, top gearbox ratio and get your tyre radius...

Then go the other way with the calc tyre radius, new diff ratio, final gearbox ratio and speed you wanna check)

Cheers,
Tim

Whats an EL auto's final drive?

 

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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:47 pm 
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chec the specs in the back or your manual (if you have one)

should have the available diff ratios they had and the t5 and auto ratio list...

other than that not sure...

Sorry man...

The box top gear might be .9 and the diff might be 3.08 or something like that?

Really have no idea though... :?

 

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Performance: Complete AUII VCT Wiring & Power Train, Pacey Headers, 2.5" Exhaust, Exedy Clutch, DBA Rotors
Visuals: FG XR Wheel, XR Front, 17's, BA 5 Spd Shifter, BA Ghia Window Switches, NL Cluster
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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:49 pm 
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timmytimtim wrote:
chec the specs in the back or your manual (if you have one)

should have the available diff ratios they had and the t5 and auto ratio list...

other than that not sure...

Sorry man...

The box top gear might be .9 and the diff might be 3.08 or something like that?

Really have no idea though... :?

Thats ok ill get the specs and use your formula!

 

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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:50 pm 
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4.11's in my EF was 2400rpm @ 100kph

was also running cam, chip & 2500rpm stall and fuel economy was 9L per 100km highway, and 12L per 100km city....... not any worse than my stock AU :wink:
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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 10:52 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
4.11's in my EF was 2400rpm @ 100kph

was also running cam, chip & 2500rpm stall and fuel economy was 9L per 100km highway, and 12L per 100km city....... not any worse than my stock AU :wink:

How do you go with the stall, i mean if im driving and drop to 3rd is there a stall lag? under2500rpm i mean? even taking off in heavy traffic needing low RPM's whats that like?

 

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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:02 pm 
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^^^ That there is not too bad at all...

Overall what's your opinion of the launch like... Its it a massive difference, or only slightly noticeable?

Cheers,
Tim

 

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Performance: Complete AUII VCT Wiring & Power Train, Pacey Headers, 2.5" Exhaust, Exedy Clutch, DBA Rotors
Visuals: FG XR Wheel, XR Front, 17's, BA 5 Spd Shifter, BA Ghia Window Switches, NL Cluster
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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:03 pm 
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ive driven with 2 different high stalls in my car......... both were rated up to 2800rpm, and both only flashed to 2500rpm when you jumped on the throttle.. (2000rpm being stock)

these stalls, drive like factory when driving normally.......they still retained factory lockup, you only noticed the stall when you jump on the throttle. Then you get nothing but wheelspin....... i never could work out how the car benefited :|

a stall would be the last thing on the list of mods imo
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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:05 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
ive driven with 2 different high stalls in my car......... both were rated up to 2800rpm, and both only flashed to 2500rpm when you jumped on the throttle.. (2000rpm being stock)

these stalls, drive like factory when driving normally.......they still retained factory lockup, you only noticed the stall when you jump on the throttle. Then you get nothing but wheelspin....... i never could work out how the car benefited :|

a stall would be the last thing on the list of mods imo

How is a stock stally 2000RPM? i dont understand? i move on idle!!less than a GRAND

 

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Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake!
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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:07 pm 
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timmytimtim wrote:
Overall what's your opinion of the launch like... Its it a massive difference, or only slightly noticeable?


as mentioned, wheelspin is a problem and nearly kills any benefit you have from using a stock stall in the first place

however, the wheelspin gives you throttle control..... just like riding the clutch with a manual trying to get the correct mix of traction and wheelspin for a nice launch

without a tight LSD, its a waste of time though
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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:09 pm 
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ford-racer46 wrote:
How is a stock stally 2000RPM? i dont understand? i move on idle!!less than a GRAND


example vid below, jumps on the throttle....... theres some slippage until roughly 2000rpm when the converter locks up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=egY-fqPiTZ4
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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:12 pm 
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ford-racer46 wrote:
FordFairmont wrote:
ive driven with 2 different high stalls in my car......... both were rated up to 2800rpm, and both only flashed to 2500rpm when you jumped on the throttle.. (2000rpm being stock)

these stalls, drive like factory when driving normally.......they still retained factory lockup, you only noticed the stall when you jump on the throttle. Then you get nothing but wheelspin....... i never could work out how the car benefited :|

a stall would be the last thing on the list of mods imo

How is a stock stally 2000RPM? i dont understand? i move on idle!!less than a GRAND


Oh boy (the mother of all facepalms) :evil: .

Did we not cover this here?
ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/stall-converter-t19930-40.html

Did you read any of the replys?

Did I not give you a thorough explanation of how they work in this post?

xcabbi wrote:
ford-racer46.... What is it exactly that you want from your motor? One minute you want turbo or forced induction, next minute you want the lot with the lot but in an NA setup (read here: ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/re-build-for-supercharging-t91337.html). Do you actually want a motor or do you just want friends?

Have you got any mates with turbo, supercharged or NA setups? Ask em to take you for a spin so you can get a sample, then take your pick and stick with it. And remember to set realistic goals.

Anyway back on topic.

Torque converters are the Automatic transmission equivalent to a centrifugal clutch. Stall speed is the max speed that the motor is allowed to turn whilst the car is held stationary. And that does not mean holding it with a foot brake, as a well setup converter will easily overcome the foot-brake at or near stall speed. Only way to truly stall a car up is with a trans-brake (especially if its turbo). And before you put a trans-brake n your wish-list just hold that thought for a few moments as Adelaide doesn't have any drag strips (the only place a trans-brake will be of any use).

Again, back on topic.. again.
When you are travelling at a low speed (under 25km/h) and you take your foot off the accelerator and then smash it again. The rpm that the engine revs to before you feel the car start to pull is the flash stall speed. This is a better indication for selecting a converter on a non trans-brake equipped car. If the flash stall matches the peak torque rpm of the engine then the car will be a rather potent street weapon.

As for cam's. You can have a cam that is lumpy everywhere in the rev range (and utterly useless for anything apart from its intended design purpose). Its called a pro stock cam :lol:

Being a fixed geometry item, camshafts are compromise items. You can't have your cake and eat it too. Lumpy basically means gutless down low and powerful up high. The lumpier the cam, the more gutless it is down low whilst it pulls harder up top. But its more involved than that. Read phillyc's post a few more times and get the books he mentioned. Its the only way way you are going to learn how engines work. Pimply faced keyboard warriors only know so much before their knowledge plateau's and they pump you full of the crap that you want to hear.
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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:12 pm 
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so a 2800 stally will let you throttle without spin as if we were doing a stand still, but go to take off normal and it will behave stock???
:lol: dont put me on the pelican lol

 

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Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake!
SHAKE AND BAKE

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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:15 pm 
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Sorry man but ya to smart dumb it down!

 

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Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake!
SHAKE AND BAKE

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 Post subject: Re: Cams for a reason
Posted: Wed May 19, 2010 11:18 pm 
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Basically yes. Take your foot off the brake and the car still moves forward. Its just when you are on the brake and give it a bit of gas, you will rev a bit more than stock before the car wants to launch or turn the tires.

Once you start going over something like 3500rpm then the converter is too loose for the street. That's when you actually have to give it a slight rev to actually get the car to move off the line. People like it cause its a characteristic of a "tuff" car, but on a day to day basis it would be a downright C*** to drive.
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