tis better in this instance if you cal the tyre diameter first as shown...

So input current RPM (@ whatever speed you choose) your diff ratio, top gearbox ratio and get your tyre radius...

Then go the other way with the calc tyre radius, new diff ratio, final gearbox ratio and speed you wanna check)

Cheers,
Tim

chec the specs in the back or your manual (if you have one)

should have the available diff ratios they had and the t5 and auto ratio list...

other than that not sure...

Sorry man...

The box top gear might be .9 and the diff might be 3.08 or something like that?

Really have no idea though...

4.11's in my EF was 2400rpm @ 100kph

was also running cam, chip & 2500rpm stall and fuel economy was 9L per 100km highway, and 12L per 100km city....... not any worse than my stock AU

ive driven with 2 different high stalls in my car......... both were rated up to 2800rpm, and both only flashed to 2500rpm when you jumped on the throttle.. (2000rpm being stock)

these stalls, drive like factory when driving normally.......they still retained factory lockup, you only noticed the stall when you jump on the throttle. Then you get nothing but wheelspin....... i never could work out how the car benefited

a stall would be the last thing on the list of mods imo

Overall what's your opinion of the launch like... Its it a massive difference, or only slightly noticeable?

How is a stock stally 2000RPM? i dont understand? i move on idle!!less than a GRAND

How is a stock stally 2000RPM? i dont understand? i move on idle!!less than a GRAND

ford-racer46.... What is it exactly that you want from your motor? One minute you want turbo or forced induction, next minute you want the lot with the lot but in an NA setup (read here: ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/re-build-for-supercharging-t91337.html). Do you actually want a motor or do you just want friends?

Have you got any mates with turbo, supercharged or NA setups? Ask em to take you for a spin so you can get a sample, then take your pick and stick with it. And remember to set realistic goals.

Anyway back on topic.

Torque converters are the Automatic transmission equivalent to a centrifugal clutch. Stall speed is the max speed that the motor is allowed to turn whilst the car is held stationary. And that does not mean holding it with a foot brake, as a well setup converter will easily overcome the foot-brake at or near stall speed. Only way to truly stall a car up is with a trans-brake (especially if its turbo). And before you put a trans-brake n your wish-list just hold that thought for a few moments as Adelaide doesn't have any drag strips (the only place a trans-brake will be of any use).

Again, back on topic.. again.
When you are travelling at a low speed (under 25km/h) and you take your foot off the accelerator and then smash it again. The rpm that the engine revs to before you feel the car start to pull is the flash stall speed. This is a better indication for selecting a converter on a non trans-brake equipped car. If the flash stall matches the peak torque rpm of the engine then the car will be a rather potent street weapon.

As for cam's. You can have a cam that is lumpy everywhere in the rev range (and utterly useless for anything apart from its intended design purpose). Its called a pro stock cam

Being a fixed geometry item, camshafts are compromise items. You can't have your cake and eat it too. Lumpy basically means gutless down low and powerful up high. The lumpier the cam, the more gutless it is down low whilst it pulls harder up top. But its more involved than that. Read phillyc's post a few more times and get the books he mentioned. Its the only way way you are going to learn how engines work. Pimply faced keyboard warriors only know so much before their knowledge plateau's and they pump you full of the crap that you want to hear.