Pretty much a straight fit except either the k-frame will need to be modded to clear the sump, or the sump cut and shut to clear the k-frame.

Probably a few other minor things needed to get it running but a lot of people have done it so there should be plenty of info on here

They will fit in an an ef but you will need to moddify the sump to fit.

ok because i dont know much about the AU, im curious is there any major flaws i'd be looking for.
because, in all engines/car there are certain things to watch for, i'll scour the forums for things i should watch for. but yeah either getting a new head or getting a new engine would be a good idea.

hmm i'd proably be right in saying that the head of an au motor wouldnt work on the EF one, as im no mechanic and only understand basic terms this would be my assumption.

but, to modify the sump, shouldn't be too much trouble i'd imagine.

I can supply an engine, help you fit it and do your suspension.
Will send a PM with my number.

Take him up on the offer of his help if MadMatt is cheap enough and heres the link of my conversion from the EF motor to the Au motor

http://www.fordmods.com/ford-4l-and-6-cylinder-f1/just-starting-au-in-ef-conversion-t81875.html
cheers Alan

yeah i spoke to matt breifly on the phone, i'm keen to seek his help, see at the moment i went to my mechanic today and he heat tested my cylnders, turns out the first one in the one with the problem, he says its only running at 98 degrees while the others are on like 103, so that s where the leak is.

then my mecahnic (joe) sugested that i try chemiweld in it,(originally i was against it) but he said in this situation only use "1/3" of the can at most.

i want to see if this works first becasue if it does this saves me alot of money upfront, till im able to get another job and have enough money to redo the head prfessionally or put an AU motor in.

But if this is a failiure, im more then happy to go to matts and do a new engine, im just looking at costs atm since im limited in the cash department. but as i was speaking to matt on the phone he informed me of his profession and connections, and im more then willing to let him work on my suspension and car, so chances are when joe rings me back i'll know the situation in full, then it would be clear on what to do.

thanks for you help with the au motor allan i appreciate the thread link to.

hi have you thought about this


ford-parts-for-sale-f17/fs-worked-cylinder-head-t83754.html

yes actaully i did, there are so much more options then i originally realised, thing is i'll know what i should do later on today, but "needfordspeed" did pm me, but i get i item sent to adelaide may cost a bit too, so im not sure yet

but thanks for the feedback mate

chemiweld does work well on cracked heads..
but!! i would only consider using it in a case of a no choice situation or to temp fix it untill you replace the engine.(if you do use chemiweld? when the time comes replace the whole engine not the head)
i used it on my old eb run around to keep it going till the rego ran out and it worked a treat..
if your thinking about getting rid of the car then chemiweld will do the job. but its something i wouldnt do as i wouldnt like to be the new owner of the car to have it fail big time in 6 months or so...

your right about that man, my dad said, chemiweld it then sell it .. i was like "i couldnt handle doing that to someone" .... cept if it was a dodgey ripoff car sales place and i traded it in lol..

but yeah thats my plan so far, chemi weld as a temp repair. but i really want to work the bottom end of the engine, with a worked top end... this is in the future ofcourse, because the bottom end has brilliant compressions for the age, but the head has a small crack in cyl 1.. hmm so i guess my question here would be

does chemiweld "possibly" wreck the bottom half of your engine?

if so, i'd be looking at an AU motor, or a XR8 ef-el motor(keeping in mind i'd need new trans, suspension, and brakes) ... may aswell trade it in for an XR8 lol ... its all theory atm, till i work out if chemiweld will work, as i type this my car is in the shop getting done too.

in some cases it can block water galleries, waterpump and even clog up heater core and radiator.

but if you use it as per instructions..
drain the cooling system half fill it with water add the chemiweld fill the rest with water run the engine for 20 mins or so with the radiator cap released or removed, then drive the car for 1/2 hour or so.. then let it cool drain the water to get rid of any extra chemiweld, then re fill it with clean water it should be ok??
i think that sometimes people just put the chemiweld in and drive it...
then when the time comes to fix it properly all the extra chemi weld left in the cooling system settles and clogs things up..

but at the price of low km au engines now days it can be cheaper to do a engine swap...

^^^ Methinks I bought a Fairmont EF sedan with that problem... Lucky it was $400, with new battery, tyres, nice clean interior and a bunch of other stuff worth having... The inside of the engine looked unbelievably s**t that's for real. Still, the cam out of it was reground by Wade and half the rocker gear came in handy and the head sold for a few bob too...

I know that replacing a head yourself seems like a daunting prospect and you should get some help... I also know that when you will be spewing at yourself for paying anyone else once you do one yourself in a few years time.

MadMatt might even let you hang around and do it together or something. If you go to a wrecker and pull a head off together it should take a couple of hours. I grabbed one myself in under two hours, and I ain't very flash....

So say two hours and $120 odd will get you a head. Then go to a engine reconditioning shop and get them to mill (shave) it back to flat and give it the once over - metal hardness is almost as important to know as if it has cracks. The alloy can soften a bit and you don't want a too soft one.

From what I've seen 95% of these heads are pretty much okay with a re-working here or there. When you're at the wreckers check the engines for signs the head is okay --- Not a lot of oil / water / rust forming around head-block seal would be a good start! Anyways, pull the head off and then you can see the condition of the bores and check how much water is in them (none would be best).

Go and get yourself an AU head gasket and AU head bolts and put the lot back on...

It's the cheapest way, and you'll learn a whole heap doing it. Stuff putting a whole AU motor in...
How do you know the head is cracked and not just the head gasket is stuffed by the way?


Ah well, whatever.

I managed to buy a new motor, completely strip it, rebuild it better than new (in my opinion) and put it back in my car for under $1000. But it took me a while, and was not without dramas as was the first time I'd ever done anything of the sort.

If you have a $1000 to spend, I'd say find someone like MadMatt and go for it.


And, just for the record --- If you do something dodgy to a car and give it to a car yard as a trade in deal the new owner will find out sooner or later and be quite p****d. p****d enough to look at the ownership records even.

I suppose it all comes down to Money in the end, Ive tried Chemi weld and i think its upto your opinion if its works or not but i think it doesent, depending on how long you expect to get out of this engine till you have some decent money again your answer could be in your Pantry cupboard yep, try using white pepper and slowly pour it in and using around half a small container i resorted to using it after chemi weld failed to fix the problem when i didnt have enough money for another motor and the white pepper lasted for around 5 months long enough for me to save for another motor.

I replaced the head once cost me $75 for the head which i didnt machine, $99 for new head bolts and what a b**ch one of them was to get out had to weld a socket extention to one to remove it, Gaskets all up i think for me to do it was around close to $300, but that motor lasted another two years or so. These days you can buy another motor for that so think hard if its worth replacing the head gasket.

Maybe iam getting lazy but for all the drama you can have doing a head replacement id rather swap the motor but it is also a good way to learn about working on your car.

Ok had my two cents worth illl go sit in my corner again
cheers Alan