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Posted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 5:09 pm 
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efmarek wrote:
Shell Helix ULTRA is damn good! I used it for many years in my EF 6.....and my friend (who is an engineer at ford, and has driven many cars like mine) says that my EF went harder than any other one he has driven (fully stock ofcourse). I put it down to the oil....also because i was reading up on some oil tests that have been done, and shell ultra (5w40) has one of the best SHEAR (when oil loses its strength) rates of any other oil of the same price.


By the way, its been scientifically proven that the correct way to break in an engine is like this :

1. Sump full of cheap NON SYNTHETIC oil.

2. Start engine then start driving VERY EASY until engine reaches operating temp.

3. AS SOON as it reaches the operating temp (by the way at this point make sure your on a hi/free way and in 2nd gear (auto), 3rd gear (manual) ) from low revs put your foot flat on pedal (WOT) and hold it flat until u reach redline. Once at redlin, slam the throttle closed and let the car deccelarate by its own engine braking. (not "breaking"). When u chop the throttle at high revs the engine vacuum is huge!....and this 'vacuum' sucks out all the micro metal shavings from inside the combustion chambers. Then once your at low revs again give it flat stick and repeat this process again. Do this many many times. I would dedicate at least 1 whole day for this. Its all about putting the engine under LOAD. It pushes the Rings out against the Bore, 'grinding' them into shape, forming a 'uniform' surface with the bores themselves. Which in turn will give the best possible SEAL.
Whice THEN means your engine will experience MINIMAL possible 'Blow-By'. MINIMUL possible Oil consumpsion. BEST possible Fuel Economy. MAXIMUM possible Power & Torque!

Be sure to change your OIL & FILTER at 500k's. And DO NOT start using SYNTHETIC oil UNTIL 15,000k's!!!.

Feel free to PM me with any questions......or arguements, which i will prove wrong. :)



i'd just like to hear what you might think would happen if you were to run in an engine that has a flat tappet cam using that method?....

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 29, 2007 9:08 am 
Parts Gopher
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Location: Tumut
NSW, Australia

Quote:
By the way, its been scientifically proven that the correct way to break in an engine is like this :

1. Sump full of cheap NON SYNTHETIC oil.

2. Start engine then start driving VERY EASY until engine reaches operating temp.

3. AS SOON as it reaches the operating temp (by the way at this point make sure your on a hi/free way and in 2nd gear (auto), 3rd gear (manual) ) from low revs put your foot flat on pedal (WOT) and hold it flat until u reach redline. Once at redlin, slam the throttle closed and let the car deccelarate by its own engine braking. (not "breaking"). When u chop the throttle at high revs the engine vacuum is huge!....and this 'vacuum' sucks out all the micro metal shavings from inside the combustion chambers. Then once your at low revs again give it flat stick and repeat this process again. Do this many many times. I would dedicate at least 1 whole day for this. Its all about putting the engine under LOAD. It pushes the Rings out against the Bore, 'grinding' them into shape, forming a 'uniform' surface with the bores themselves. Which in turn will give the best possible SEAL.
Whice THEN means your engine will experience MINIMAL possible 'Blow-By'. MINIMUL possible Oil consumpsion. BEST possible Fuel Economy. MAXIMUM possible Power & Torque!

Be sure to change your OIL & FILTER at 500k's. And DO NOT start using SYNTHETIC oil UNTIL 15,000k's!!!.

Feel free to PM me with any questions......or arguements, which i will prove wrong.

this is not true if you install a cam in engine with lifters you will need to bed the cam to lifters when my engine was fitted i had to start check timeing then rev car at 1800rpm for 10 to 20 mins this way the cam and lifters are match and last a lot longer and cam wear is less of a chance of happening as well this get all air out of oil system
after this is done you then take car and bed rings in then for say 5000km do not sit on the one speed for to long (don,t drive Melb to Sydney at 110knm all the way step speed 30mins on 90 then 110 then back to 80 you just need to change your speed

it was in the instration when i got my engine rebuild
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Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 4:13 am 
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i agree
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Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:39 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Car manufacturers generally run the engines in with monograde engine running in oil prior to delivery of the vehicle to the new owner. it contains no adatives or protectants or anything and allows the parts to mesh together.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:27 pm 
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repco sell it running in oil valvoline make it. it straight 30 grade
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:36 pm 
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DJBOOBY wrote:
after this is done you then take car and bed rings in then for say 5000km do not sit on the one speed for to long (don,t drive Melb to Sydney at 110knm all the way step speed 30mins on 90 then 110 then back to 80 you just need to change your speed


i agree coz when i had my engine rebuild, thats exactly what my mechanic told me to do.
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Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 9:06 pm 
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Anyone tried castrol edge sport (5W-30W) in an EF?
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Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:54 pm 
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dabloodemess wrote:
Anyone tried castrol edge sport (5W-30W) in an EF?



no but i have used motul 300V 5w30 in an EF. befor the rebuild it burnt alot of it. after the rebuild it burns none and has great oil pressure

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 12:13 am 
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Ride: 2002 Mustang Cobra

Location: Broadmeadows (Melb. North)
VIC, Australia

Wat bout for a 300,000km EF i6 running an R4 cam.. which oil u recommend? i get lifter noise every 3rd or 4th startup, sometimes for 10seconds or so, sometimes for a minute...

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 9:42 pm 
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Hey Guys
My AUIII XR6 has about 150 000 kms on it and i was wondering what oil i should use
this convo has confused me a little :S

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 9:42 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Hey Guys
My AUIII XR6 has about 150 000 kms on it and i was wondering what oil i should use
this convo has confused me a little :S

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:34 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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StrawbZ wrote:
Hey Guys
My AUIII XR6 has about 150 000 kms on it and i was wondering what oil i should use
this convo has confused me a little :S


look in your hand book, find the oil spec page and it will tell you to run 10w30 or 15w30. put that in it, if it doesn't burn any of it keep using it.

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:55 pm 
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StrawbZ wrote:
Hey Guys
My AUIII XR6 has about 150 000 kms on it and i was wondering what oil i should use
this convo has confused me a little :S


im using penrite hpr 5 (5w-40) im my au engine and it just reached the 100,000 km service..
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Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 3:48 pm 
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I have a merc v8 (ohc) and it has always been a bit noisy but since i got it serviced its been even noisier and sometimes blows oil smoke out the back.

What oil would you guys recommend i run? I'm unsure what the service guys put in.

Car is an 83 with 140,000kms but was left sitting for a while around 18 months or more ago.

Just wanna quieten it down a bit.

 

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Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 12:37 am 
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im doing my head and about to put penrite hpr 30 in my car is that a good idear from running caltex halvoline 15w40?

 

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