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| wild_cleveland |
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iv got a heavily worked head on my fresh ef i6 but it only has a wade 1636 which is not seein the full potential, what do you guys use in an auto when chasing big power?
_________________ If it has wheels or a skirt, You can't afford it. |
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| KWIKXR |
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How heavily worked are we talking?? Will it be running on the stock ecu or will it be chipped?
Id be going for a big custom grind cam with a 2800 hi-stall 
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| skidder |
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and a much higher diff ratio
_________________ EVL098 wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| wild_cleveland |
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port and polished, bigger valves, shaved 30 thou, crow valve springs, fully balanced bottom end, race series bearings, ceramic and teflon coated pistons, zex kit, adjustable cam gear, bored throttle body, extractors and 2.5 inch cat back. i am ordering a set of 4.11''s too so what cam?
 and either moates or t.i performance chip, i need to know so i can get it tuned
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| skidder |
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Wade 977B or 1521A. I have used both wade cams and they would be good (wouldn't recommend running without getting a tune though as they run a bit rich, but that isn't a problem for you).
CMS stage 3 have gotten a lot of good reviews and you could also consider tighe/waggot etc. As a guide if you want a cam for up top look for anything with 500-550 gross lift and duration around 200-215@50. You will also want an LSA that gives a wider band with the auto. I think any bigger than this and you will want a stall over 3000, plus any duration over 215-220ish probably won't be any good unless your compression is fairly bumped up.
_________________ EVL098 wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| wild_cleveland |
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i want something with torque down-low as the 1636 only starts to pull at higher revs and feels like a towing cam but also will be drag racing
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| krisisdog |
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Mate the cam timing must be wrong if the 1636 only pulls up top.
Its designed to be a low- mid range cam and is recommended for autos because of this. You wont get a cam thats got good pull down low as well as something that can take full advantage of your worked head. Not gunna happen. |
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| wild_cleveland |
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cam timing is spot on, i want a cam that pulls low but still has somethin up top as the nitrous will start at about 3000-3500
_________________ If it has wheels or a skirt, You can't afford it. |
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| skidder |
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You won't get a cam that will give you better down low than a 1636 and still give a good top end. It is a pretty good all round cam and if you start going either way you are going to loose one end or the other, with static cam timing there is no way you can alter this.
The 1636 should start to pull from 2000ish? Anyway, if you want a cam for dragging you want a bigger cam that makes peak torque higher in the rev range, but your bottom end torque will suffer. Curious as to why you are so concerned about torque down low anyway? (on a car that is getting 4.11's, nos and a full performance build)
_________________ EVL098 wrote: Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con. Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays? AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone. |
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| krisisdog |
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Run no cam.
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| KWIKXR |
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Id go with Skidder's advice and either use one of Wade's bigger cams, the 977b, 1521a or get a custom profile mix done. As Skidder and Krisisdog have pointed out the 1636 is a low to mid cam, Wade told me it pretty much has more go from around the 1800 mark and starts running out of puff at around 4500rpm as i was gonna go down the 1636 route when i was looking for a cam for my auto EF.
If you're gonna be drag racing you would want a cam thats making its power higher in the rev range so when it changes into the next gear it will be spinning in the range where the cam is bringing on the torque. With cams, you sacrifice one end of the rev range to make gains in the other Im suprised your this keen on keeping it N/A. Most people would of put the money into a budget turbo build. Credit to you for working it N/A though 
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| krisisdog |
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Budget turbo > expensive NA. There is/was a homemade kit on boosted for $2k, bolt on, no tune = 13s in an EF. I know which one I'd choose.
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| wild_cleveland |
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ever thought that im on my p's?
_________________ If it has wheels or a skirt, You can't afford it. |
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| TROYMAN |
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i think the only other wade cams that will give good down low would be the 952 or 1604??
but as they say what you gain down low you will loose up top and vice versa... |
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| racer |
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Mate use the 977B-14 Wade cam. That's the cam in my car.
I had the 1636 Wade cam. Got 130rwkw & 370nm torque. The 977B-14 Wade cam. Got 148rwkw & 410nm torque. All this with the standard ecu. The 977B cam s**t all over the 1636 cam all accross the rev range in power & torque. I have faxed both my dyno pappers to Keith & Chris at Wade Cams & expressed how happy i was with the 977B-14 Wade Cam.
_________________ FORD EL 4.0L. Crow cam, T.I Performance J3 Chip, Vernier cam gear, SPR ported head, 68mm TB, AU head gasket + ARP studs, AU injectors, Pacey 4480, High flow cat, Shift kit, Stallie, 3:73 TrueTrac. |
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