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| XFWAGON |
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What is this thing, can i get rid of it? My air shockies are gone, so is the EGR setup. whats it do?? Wouldn't mind using the T-pieces out of it for my Explorer.
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
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| prydey |
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i think its part of the egr setup, or emissions or something. i chucked it out on mine.
_________________ eb v8: low loud and fast. just how a v8 should be. i guess the big question is, is it fast enough... |
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| XFWAGON |
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Awesome, trying to get rid of anything i don't need, Auto came out today, T5 going in tomorrow weather permitting then as soon as the injectors get here the explorer is going on. Do you know what the part numbers for the upper gasket and also the throttle gasket is? I bought a gasket "set" from supercheap, told the guy exactly what i needed he said: "Sure, no worries be here tomorrow" picked it up and got home to find it was only the standard 5.0 lower manifold set. So i need the gasket that is sandwiched between the upper/lower intake manifold and also the t/b to manifold gasket
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
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| prydey |
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not sure of numbers. just ask for AU stuff.
_________________ eb v8: low loud and fast. just how a v8 should be. i guess the big question is, is it fast enough... |
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| xafalcon |
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I wouldn't go removing any of the EGR emission equipment as it will cause several fault codes, most likely some of these
- EVP circuit below minimum voltage - EVP voltage below closed limit - EGR valve has not opened - EVP voltage above closed limit - EVP circuit above maximum voltage - EGR circuit faulty I have found the best way with an AU explorer intake install on EB-EL electronics is to mount the EGR valve and position sensor on the EGR spacer and hook it all up (electrical and vacuum). The manifold doesn't have exhaust gas passages so the EGR is still inoperative, but the computer doesn't "see" this as the feedback from EVP is normal. ie computer instructs vacuum solenoid to open EGR, EGR opens and moves EVP, EVP sends signal back to ECU = happy computer. This solution doesn't work if your intake is a 220kW Tickford as they didn't come with an EGR spacer. In this case the EGR/EVP is mounted and connected remotely, but has the same effect.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| XFWAGON |
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So kind of just screw it onto the spacer but make no holes etc? So its just got to be there basically? even if it is mounted to solid metal?
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
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| banarcus |
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xafalcon wrote: I wouldn't go removing any of the EGR emission equipment as it will cause several fault codes, most likely some of these - EVP circuit below minimum voltage - EVP voltage below closed limit - EGR valve has not opened - EVP voltage above closed limit - EVP circuit above maximum voltage - EGR circuit faulty I have found the best way with an AU explorer intake install on EB-EL electronics is to mount the EGR valve and position sensor on the EGR spacer and hook it all up (electrical and vacuum). The manifold doesn't have exhaust gas passages so the EGR is still inoperative, but the computer doesn't "see" this as the feedback from EVP is normal. ie computer instructs vacuum solenoid to open EGR, EGR opens and moves EVP, EVP sends signal back to ECU = happy computer. This solution doesn't work if your intake is a 220kW Tickford as they didn't come with an EGR spacer. In this case the EGR/EVP is mounted and connected remotely, but has the same effect. Apart from fault codes, I cannot see where there is a detrimental effect without the EGR/EVP connected, apart from the fact that if you're still using the E7s and their poor combustion characteristics. |
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| xafalcon |
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Correct. Drilling and tapping two holes in the EGR spacer is a quick and easy fix to eliminate the fault codes. Any time the ecu is logging fault codes it is likely to try and "protect the engine & transmission from damage" by going into torque limit mode with a resultant "small loss of power" as the factory manual describes it.
I also mount the IAT sensor on the front side of the upper explorer intake just inboard of the EGR spacer. This means the existing wire is long enough to reach.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| XFWAGON |
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Ah cool thanks for that, learn something new everyday. I have the sensor already in the intake tube, how badly is the standard wire wrapped into that loom, is it able to be pulled out slightly so it reaches the factory position on the AU intake piping? I haven't really looked at it too much, cant do bloody anything, its been raining and snowing for days.
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
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| xafalcon |
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I hope this is a photo of a modified explorer intake. First time I've tried adding photo's here, or using photobucket. I don't know about the length of the wires in the injector loom. I always try and keep them intact, as the signals are so small that a single bad connection can cause problems.
It's also preferable to minimise movements of the wires as copper work hardens and becomes brittle, then breaks. By mounting IAC on the intake there is no net wire movement as the engine rocks on the rubber mounts in everyday driving. When the IAC is mounted in the intake pipe, there is a net movement movement of the wires as one end of the tube is mounted the the body. Hopefully this makes sense. 
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| XFWAGON |
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Oh i see where you mean, i was considering just retaining the original position from the stock intake, just drilling it into the same place on the explorer. Is the plug the same as the AU one? Oh and also the tube with coolent that sits on the HO t/b, is no longer present on the explorer, so i take it i just block that line off?
_________________ 1993 LTD V8 Oregon 5 speed "click me" |
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| xafalcon |
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I thought the original position in the runner was too thin on the explorer lower intake as there is no boss casting like the original (or cobra) lower manifold. I bought some 1" aluminium bar and was going to get a 1/2" length welded onto the lower manifold runner to act as a boss, but then I though, why bother??? Easier just to go into the place I used where it's already nice and thick, and still in reach of the original wire length. On the next one I do I will move the sensor about 1/2" further away from the EGR spacer for easier access.
No idea about the plug, I only do EEC4 conversions. You could either blank the little coolant tubes off, or run a tube between them. The latter is probably cheapest as you already have everything needed.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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