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LSD installed... Now getting weird noise under acceleration. 

 

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 Post subject: LSD installed... Now getting weird noise under acceleration.
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:16 am 
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As the title suggests... I just had a 3.45 EL LSD put into my EF by a Falcon conversion mob here in SA.

Now, under certain circumstances, Im getting this terrible noise, almost as if my rear wheel or something metal is rubbing at the back... It also shudders and bangs/knocks quite badly.

It happens whenever I am accelerating hard, especially bad when cornering... or occasionally when I go over a bump/pot hole at speed.

Otherwise the diff is fine and works as it should. Even when it's making the noise the diff seems to be working fine apart from the knocking.

I know that the cases I listed are fairly extreme but it wasn't doing it before with the old single spinner and now it is doing it!!

I'm going to be taking it back to the guys that installed it but I was hoping someone on here would be able to say... "Well this is your problem!"

Any help would be great guys...

Thanks!
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Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:02 am 
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You wont need to know the prob, cause i assume you'll be taking your car back to these guys ASAP as nothing sounds right with that install

good luck with it
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Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 am 
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Diff angle is probably out due to the height of the car.
It probably needs xr upper trailing arms.

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:06 pm 
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How many $$$'s for them Matty? I won't be able to take the car back for a week so if I know what the problem is then I can take the trailing arms with me and get them to pop them in.
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Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:38 pm 
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Didn't you say they were just swapping the centre in a previous thread?

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:41 pm 
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That's what I thought but it turned out that they swapped the entire diff assembly.

I just rang them and they agreed with Matt. Except apparently the XR trailing arms are exactly the same as the standard trailing arms. The problem is that there are three adjustment positions on the arms and the bloke I spoke to reckons they put it in the highest possible position rather than the lowest.

My question now is... has it damaged anything? I can't see how it would've but still...
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Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:47 pm 
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Nah wouldn't have damaged anything, maybe taken a few months of the life of your uni joints?
Nothing to stress about.
What arms did they use?
Try moving them to the lowest and rearmost mounting point.

 

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Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:51 pm 
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What happens is that when under accelaration the car squats and the standard length 340mm EF upper control arms while mounted in the rear/lower holes will rub on the top of the axel housing.

If they have mounted the EF upper control arms in the front/upper holes the pinion will be pointing up fair way, and I suspect the tailshaft may be knocking on the floor.

You need to get either the standard EL 320mm upper control arms (to go in the front/upper holes) or the EL XR 340mm (have a slight kink in the arm to clear the axel tube) upper control arms.

You would have thought that a 'Falcon Conversion' mob would know there s**t.

Good luck

BenJ

 

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Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 10:59 pm 
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Ben's right with all that.
If they've used EF upper arms on the forward hole they need to fit EL upper arms as they definitely are shorter and MUST be used with an EL diff in our experience.
If they wish to use the lower hole then ELXR6 kinked upper arms MUST be used because the straight [EF and EL] upper arms will NOT clear the diff housing in that location.
A good set of std EL upper arms are $30-$50 per set from a wreckers. Unless your car is really [ultra] low they're probably all you'll need. If you're lucky they may have a set there from the diff they fitted or maybe they used the wrong [lowest] hole.
A quick read of this link, with pix, may help you see the problem. Same with EB2 and EF.
http://nswfo.cbdomain.com/nswfo/index.php?topic=9.0
Cheers,
Mac

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 12:16 am 
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From what I understand, they used all the EL parts taken from the EL Falcon.

I would have thought that would include EL upper control arms.

What the guy told me is that the EL upper control arms have three mounting points and they must have accidentally used the highest possible mounting point instead of the lowest. Does this make sense?

He also told me that the EL XR upper control arms are EXACTLY the same as the standard upper control arms. But from you guys are saying, the EL XR upper control arms have a slight kink and are longer. Is this right?

I am going to take the car back to them this Wednesday but I don't want to be taken for another ride so I'd like to know exactly what should be done in order to fix the problem.

So basically, the diff needs to be fitted with either standard EL upper control arms mounted at the lowest point OR EL XR upper control arms would be even better.

Am I right?
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Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 2:09 am 
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That's not quite right.
It sounds to me like they put the std. EL arms in the lowest hole, this is wrong and so is using the highest hole.
If it's a standard EL arm it should be in the middle hole, for all normal uses the very top one is not used and the lowest hole is for the kinked ELXR6 arms only.
There is no captive nut behind the upper hole either, so it's a bad guess to use it, if they did.
BenJ may be home from Qld by now, he has my XR6 upper arms at his place and may be able to get some pix for you to show them the kink that is required to clear the axle housing when using the lowest hole.
They definitely are different, if the std arm is used on the lowest hole it will not have enough free travel and will squeak and bang at every little bump.
The EL std arms are 20mm shorter than EB-ED & EF, my pics show this clearly and should be used in the middle hole.
The ELXR6 arms are 20mm longer than std. EL but because they fit 20mm back in the bracket AND are a different shape to clear the axle housing they'll work ONLY in that hole. No other arm will!!
This is mainly for a lowered car when the standard arms do not give the correct diff. pinion angle as shown in the link I posted.
PM BenJ and ask him to post or e-mail some pix for you.
Cheers,
Mac

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 9:14 am 
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I get it. They probably assumed they should go in the lowest hole seemings it's a lowered car. I'll point out the difference between the standard and kinked XR arms when I go back. See what they say...

So, in theory, if they've done what I think they've done, then moving the mounting to the middle hole will fix the problem?

I just read in your link that the adjustable Nolathane will work as well. I was going to get a full Nolathane enhancement kit anyway but I reckon I'll just get these guys to fix the problem as it is now and I can put the adjustable arms in later.

The only reason I know s**t all about this stuff is because the only thing I've done on or around my diff set-up is install my Koni's and king springs!

Thanks a lot for all that.
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Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 10:35 am 
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MoNGooSE,
The last I heard the adjustable arms were dear as poison, if you could get still them.
My EB2 GLI was superlow and the std. EL arms worked on the centre hole, I now have the kinked ELXR6 arms to fit to the lowest hole when I move the diff over to my latest project, an EB2 Fairmont.
They might not be necessary or better for my setup but I want to try them to be sure.
You may find the std. EL arms in the middle hole are ok for you too but if not, finding a set of ELXR6 arms at a wreckers and fitting nolathane bushes to them might be easier and cheaper.
I guess it all depends on how good your diff pinion angle sets up.
I'll ask Ben today to post pix of the XR6 arms for you to print out, be easier to show them a pic when they say we're wrong about this [LOL] I can assure you we're not wrong as this is not just theory for us.
Cheers,
Mac

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:48 pm 
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Thanks buddy. Very helpful.
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Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 5:37 pm 
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Mongoose

I am home with the flu urrrrrrrrrr

I will take some pics in the morning and post them up for you.

Cheers

BenJ

 

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