I have seen someone somewhere on here saying that we should have some threads on how to perform your simple service jobs, but i as yet could not find it so i decided to change my oil today and document it. (If i have missed something feel free to add something. Also i was going to email this to a mod first but my "Painting Rocker Cover" tech doco was emailed quite some time ago and no response.)

Changing your Oil is a simple and extremely effective way to maintain your vehicle, the car i have done this oil change on is my 1993 EB Series II Falcon ! In this oil change i decided to try 2 new things, using a "Motocraft" Oil Filter and some Mitsubishi 15w-50 Oil (Which i have heard good things about from others on this site)

Things you need !

Motor Oil (I paid $34 for mine, but its good stuff, or so ive heard)
Oil Filter (Ryco, Repco ones can be had for $5 I spent $14.90 on a Motocraft one)
Oil Filter Removal Tool (About $12 From Autopro or elsewhere)
19mm Socket or Spanner (To remove the sump)
Drain Pan (The sump can hold 5.5plus liters so get at least a 6 litre one)
Engine Flush (Optional but allows for better results i paid $13)

By peaandham, shot with FinePix A600 at 2010-01-18

First step i did was drive the car down the Ford to get my Filter and then elsewhere to get what ever else i needed, once home i poured the whole bottle of Engine Flush in the Motor and let it idle for about 10-15 minutes !


By peaandham, shot with FinePix A600 at 2010-01-18

Once the car is nice and warm (some people will say that when the car is cold is the best time to do the oil, but that is wrong the warmer, the better all the old oil will flow out better, my was scolding hot but i wanted great results, just make sure you dont burn yourselves) get under the car with the drain pan and spanner or socket and undo the sump/drain plug. once the plug is loose the oil will pour out into the drain pan (see image)


By peaandham, shot with FinePix A600 at 2010-01-18

I waited about 30 Minutes to have all the oil drain out of the sump (waiting this long isnt necessary but the more you can drain out the better) hell just go have a beer while you wait (FM or myself do not accept responsibility for any alcohol related injuries incurred during this task, or any other injuries for that fact).

Once done get under the front right of the car and locate the Oil Filter (a jack may aid this process) and grasp your oil filter tool onto the filter like the diagram below

By peaandham, shot with FinePix A600 at 2010-01-18

Turn to the left while tightening the grip and loosen, once loosened it'll just come off with turning it by hand. Once separated from the car tip the oil out of the filter into the drain pan.

The reason why i spent so much on a oil filter is that the Ford Branded "motocraft" filter on the left in the image has larger breather holes and supposedly yields better results !


By peaandham, shot with FinePix A600 at 2010-01-18

put a film of your new oil around the seal of the new filter and screw it back onto the car (by hand only) until secure. Once secure screw your sump plug back into place and then it is time for your to pour your new oil into the hole that is presented when the Oil Filler cap is removed (i used a big mouth funnel to aid me in this step)


By peaandham, shot with FinePix A600 at 2010-01-18

Run the car and if all done correctly your car should run a bit smother and there should be no oil on the floor where you worked on the car !

Last edited by peaandham on Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Very well done matey, I am sure that there are guys/girls on here who are too afraid to ask how to go about this and you have helped them and also some guys who only have some of the answers.

My favorite part of this was seeing how the oil performed after reading this thread

off-topic-f6/the-reason-i-don-t-like-penrite-oil-with-pics-t85833-40.html

(ingore all but the last two pages where Cjh and uniacidz mentioned the Mitsubishi Oil) and after putting the oil in i have no complaints car is running really nice now (except for the brakes, but Motor oil cant fix that). I will not just have to wait till the cars cold tomorrow morning to see how the 15w-50 holds up in cold weather ! I had an issue with Penrite in cold weather, but engine Armour was good and at $34 a bottle i hope this is better !

i hope you replaced the sump plug you didnt mention doing that if someon follows your doco step by step they might forget to do it

I thought about it while i was writing and thought i did ! Time to fix then !

There was a thread that was started...but noone else continued on with other general maintenances.

fordmods-technical-documents-diy-f38/general-maintenence-docco-t23004-20.html

Also i plus the Motocraft filter comes already lubed around the seals !

Good work mate.

Got any more docos lined up?

Cheers

Josh

If i try something new soon i will take photos and upload ! Im not mechanically gifted so thats a bit of an issue !

so its ok to replace the filter hand tight and leave it at that? and at the risk of sounding silly do u tighten the sump plug as tight as it will go?,....

Yeah the filter should only be tightened by hand, as it will become tight over time anyway. But not too lose, Just not over tight

With the sump plug, dont tighten it as tight as it will go mate, you will risk stripping the thread. Do it up with a spanner until it starts to get tight and then go half a turn more with the spanner.

I normally do the filter up hand tight, then give it a tweak with wrench, like 1/4 turn.
Like XR Lane said, sump plug you do up with your socket/wrench until it bites, then you just make sure its firm, which is like half a turn or so.
I also fill the filter up with oil prior to fitting to the car, about 1/2 to 3/4 full (not so much that it spills out when tipped on an angle). That way you dont have a big air lock in your oil system.

I've really only heard that filling the new filter with oil, is only really necessary for a new car to prime the oil filter/pump, where as just a film of oil around the seal on other cars is fine ! I was happy to see that the Motorcraft filters already have oil on there, pretty handy !

so no need to fill the filter? just lube the edge and screw on?

Yep !

1/2 - 3/4 filling the filter is good practice regardless of whether it's "needed".
I always do it.

cool, all done, no dramas......yet! will keep an eye under it to make sure i didnt stuff it! lol

Nice
MIght start making these stickys!

Ill change your rank to tech contributor peeandham!

Thanks Nicko thats what i was after

I don't know how long this was a sticky for, but i just noticed.

Cool Bananas