I'm the third owner so I got it for a pretty good deal.
You can get these kits new from snort for $3990 iirc.

Nice Can't argue with that ! Yeah I seem to remember them costing that much from snort... don't think it's worthwhile on my car. Maybe just save some dollars for a xr6 turbo.

I beleive this supercharger kit has done less than 1000km. The last owner added only 100km before changing plans.

Well what is 'worthwhile' depends on what YOU want.
If an XR6 turbo is what you want then yes, money is better spent saving for that, but if you want a unique blown EL, then it might be worth it.
It all comes down to what you want.

I have no plans to get rid of this car any time soon so I will certainly be getting my money's worth out of it.

That is true, it's all up to owner and what they want from the car. I think if I was to supercharge it I would possibly change the engine. With a 200,000+ km motor I don't know if they engine would be producing great results or not.

It could still be healthy at 200k. If it's been serviced well and looked after, there's no reason it couldn't handle a little injection of boost

The supercharger is fitted and the car runs!!!

Since swapping my original motor back in, I have missed the lumpy idle and exhaust note of the cammed engine, but after starting this and giving it a few revs, I now have a new favourite sound... blower whine!!
The torque this has is insane. It's right there just tempting you to plant your foot and unleash it.
But it also drives very easily. Will hopefully be getting it on a dyno in the not too distant future for a readout and inspection of my workmanship.
Later on I will be getting rid of the 12:1 FPR and will be getting a bigger fuel pump and injectors then having it tuned with a J3 chip.


Here's some pictures of the install.

Stock manifold off


New manifold on


Baseplate and fuel rail fitted


And a video, cause everyone loves videos. I recommend to listen through decent computer speakers, not your phone.
http://youtu.be/Pra5aFWodFA

I'm having a small issue with the T/B getting jammed partially open, to the point that it will idle at up to 3000rpm. It's causing some drive-ability problems, but otherwise it is very minor in the scheme of things.
The T/B only gets stuck when the engine is running, which is bloody annoying for testing purposes.
It's like the bushes on the butterfly shaft are sticky and with any sort of suction load on the butterflies, it is enough to make it stick.
I'm going to tear down the T/B and see if I can't fix the problem.

Last edited by MAD on Tue Jul 14, 2015 1:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.

That's phucking awesome MAD,
sounds so good.
Wonder what digits it'll put up on the dyno

Thanks. I'm just stoked it's running and seemingly working properly. *touch wood*

I think Dan got 194rwkw on his AU using the SVT M112 supercharger and the std AU throttlebody.
I'd expect this to be similar, but it could be a little more due to the twin throttle body and the charger being the Magnuson MP112 which has a slightly modified blower outlet that supposedly increases flow a little and reduces intake temps a bit too.
But then I think Dan's run was with it tuned running with upgraded fuel pump and injectors, whereas this is only using the stock injectors and 12:1 rising rate fuel regulator so it's anybody's guess.

I forgot, Dan also had a 3" exhaust too where I've only got the std 2.5" 'sports' exhaust so that's another negative on my side.
No point guessing really, it will be what it is.

good work getting it running so quickly.
guess that proves there really wasnt anything wrong with the kit

Thanks. It wasn't as quick as I had initially hoped. It took me about 2 full days to fit the bloody thing, but I keep syaing I work slowly to ensure everything is done properly That's my story and that's what I'm sticking to.

I have no idea what was going on with the previous install. I even pulled the PCV hose to replicate the leak he discovered afterwards and all it did for me was increase in idle speed.
I dont have my carbon canister hooked up either. I was going to hook it up but not sure which side of the charger it should be hooked to. I guess pre-charger is the safest and most factory-like position. To do that I just need to tee it off another vac line.
It could go after the charger but I dont know if there is a one way check valve on the line anywhere, other wise the charger would be pressurising the fuel tank when on boost.

well done mate , please ensure you retard the ignition timing to suit as these produce instant boost/throttle response

dans car yielded 195? rwkw @ 5psi and high klm engine ( 500,000klms? ) , larger exhaust and good set of extractors is a must to get the best results , you may find the boost pressure drop once you have done the exhaust but will go like a skun cat

this is the only kit we made with the twin throttle body and 4 inch intake section so it will be interesting to see your results

Thanks for posting Geoff.
I'm interested to get your opinion and knowledge on the setup, considering it is your design
That intake pipe must have taken ages! It's so damn fiddly and the working space isnt great. You deserve a big pat on the back for that effort.

One quick question, what the hell am I supposed to do with the A/C line? At the moment it is just jammed under the T/B. It is hard up against the throttle stop on th eintake pipe, so I cut a piece of heater hose to jam in there to protect it, but I dont like it as a final solution.

I will look into the timing. I didnt change it when I installed this, and with the tank of 91 that was in the car already it pinged a lot at WOT at around 3500rpm, but that's to be expected I thought so I topped up with 98 and it's much better. What's your recommendation for timing?

How is this for vacuum tube layout?
Pre-charger I have heater vac, brake booster, MAP sensor and bypass valve.
Post-charger I have PCV, stock FPR and FMU. The other three barbs are blocked off. One will be for the boost gauge which I'm probably going to fit tonight.
Pre-T/B I have the crankcase vent.

What fuel was the r&d based on? (91, 95, or 98)

Later on I will be doing the fuel pump and injectors to remove the need for the FMU, what size injectors would you recommend?

I've got a redback 2.5" exhaust with a high flow cat and pacmaker 4499's at the moment. Later I might look at moving to a 3" exhaust, but only if the current setup is causing a problem. I'd like to keep it quietish like it is at the moment.

What power would you expect from this setup as it is?

Cheers,
Paul.

send or post some pics of the aircon line , the system was fabricated to suit the ea-ed originally but i am sure we can make it work/fit better , you may be able to bend the metal lines ( gently ) to change the angle of the lines

timing will depend on fuel / compression / boost , you should have the timing set via j3 or ecu worst case retard the base ignition timing 5 deg but dont drive wot until you have the car tuned or you will have engine failure

ALWAYS fit boost gauge and check the fuel mixtures , the 12 :1 requires upgrade fuel pump to work correctly , bosch 023 is what we suggest ( was supplied with the original kit )

ALWAYS USE 98 OCTANE pinging will cause engine failure very very quickly !!!!, you appear to have the vac lines sorted

power levels will depend on final tune/boost/exhaust , the guy whom tuned dans car thought there was potential for up to 250rwkw with all the correct mods but in most cases 9 psi yields 200-230rwkw

supercharger camshaft is also suggested for seeking the killawasps ask the guys here at wade i am sure the can offer you a custom grind to suit , we also suggest you replace the valve springs with heavy duty set from crow/wade to prevent valve float under boost

spark plugs bcpr6es ( colder heat range .8mm gap ) also check your distributor cap ect , if purchasing new injectors either the 42lbs or 60lbs siemans seem to be the best bang for buck , on the cheap ba injectors will do the job also ( 29lbs )

dont skimp on these items mate , it will the difference not only in all out power but will provide much better reliability ----- changing engines although cheap gets tired real quick

fitting small liquid core will reduce intake temps and allow more boost , the mp112 is 1.8ltr p/d and supports up to 600hp so they are not working hard on the 4.0 platform