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| TimmyA |
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Yo bros...
The AU door locking revision is complete and works... I needed to make one addition due to a small detail I overlooked... The final circuit looks like this:  I needed 4 extra diodes for the other inputs... The circuit worked fine on the bench because I had a test light for a load on the two outputs to turn the interior light on... The issue is in reall live they drive digital inputs on the BEM... A digital input takes such little current to drive high or low... As such I was getting cross talk between driver and passenger outputs to the BEM through the the relays coils... It would go in one coil, through the second then back out the passenger leg, through the diode and then driver the passenger pin... The extra 4 diodes fixed that issue... So that's the revision to the revision... It ended up being too thick to go behind the kick panel so it is up above it under the insulation... Mounted it circuit side out with some pcb spacers and two nutserts I managed to get in thanks to an angle drill... I used a hot glue gun and run it over the +12V tracks so that should something metallic fall down there for whatever reason nothing can touch anything positive and create a circuit... Outside of that... It's in and working as intended... Now if any door is closed but ajar the car wont lock and sounds the horn... And if all doors are closed completely then the car will lock as per normal... Basically what an AU is and all the door buttons are disconnected now... Thanks to Ray for the idea on how to make it work! Cheers, Tim
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| TimmyA |
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The next project arrived today also...
 And these which I've had for a couple of weeks...  Hopefully it will improved the 100km/hr handling of the car when doing highway driving... Still a bit twitchy and it's not in the wheel alignment which is now set up as per el gt specs due to the 17x8 wheels... Can only try and fail anyway... Cheers, Tim
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| Mad2 |
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| TimmyA |
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These AU top arms... From my various work shop manuals see here the specs for ED wheel alignment
Attachment: ED.jpg And then AU wheel alignment specs... Attachment: AU.jpg Amongst other things notice the difference between the castor values... This is mostly achieve by the AU top arms... The top ball joint is further backward... meaning the upright leans backward and the car holds the wheels straighter when being pushed forward... Also means slightly heavier feel through the wheel as you are trying to lift the car when cornering onto the outside edge of one wheel and the inside of the other... Originally we found my car had toe out and that was when it was really bad... Found a sort of buggered radius rod bush and replaced the pair and it now holds toe setting which is set right... But sometimes it's exhausting trying to hold the car in straight line on a long trip... Hence the chase from some more castor... The round steel adapters are pressed in place of the ball joint and allow the arms to fit an E series... See Rollin's thread from Boosted... http://www.boostedfalcon.net/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=26367 http://www.boostedfalcon.net/viewtopic. ... start=2000 http://www.boostedfalcon.net/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=28475 He pretty covers it including photos of how to install and such... So this is the new project that I have happening... No idea how I found about that either... Stumbled on it by accident one day and ordered a set from the latest group buy... Cheers, Tim You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| misk_one |
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i was going to buy some but then had the idea of welding some plates ontop and bottom with a notch (with a support in between the plates) that allowed for the caster to be adjusted.
probly not roadworthy though even if inspected by an engineer lol
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| TimmyA |
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Because the arms are cast material I can't imagine welding anything to them would be good... The heat stress would cause brittle edges...
I'll just set these up in the middle with even shims and see what they dial up as before and after for comparison... I'm not shimming and front and back differently and trying to get some spot on castor figure... You need a s**t load of shims at the top to make bugger all difference at the bottom... Cheers, Tim
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| misk_one |
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ah yeah true!
oh well, i know someone with a lathe anyway  theres a guy on boosted that has a print out of before and after if you wanted to see it, i cant remember the username though lol
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| TimmyA |
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I found one on there... but the photo had the afters cut off... Not sure what to do with my toe atm though... whether to set it to AU of 1mm out or ED of 3mm in... Will research that some more first...
Cheers, Tim
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| misk_one |
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timmy with my XH, do you think it would be relatively easy to fit an AU3 BCM to it if i keep the XH features?
as in GLi with even no power windows or door ajar? i need to replace my BCM so thought it might be worth it to do the AU one
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| TimmyA |
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Door ajar has nothing to do with Bem... I would have done that from the start... In fact I did...
You said it ran for 2 secs and cut out yeah? Are you sure it isn't immobilised? Au will start for 2 seconds to give the Bem time send the key's code to the pcm... If after a couple of seconds it still hasn't got it then the pcm stalls the engine... You know this happens because the smart shield flashes it's jewel in the cluster... You don't have the jewel because you don't have the Bem... If you're going to run the Bem run the 5th wire to the barrel and fit an au barrel... Buy tibbe keys with the transponder and get them cut like I did and have ford do the pats so they work... Not the cheapest exercise but then you don't need the j3... My keys are genuine and were 130 ea by the time they were cut but that's what I wanted... You will also then need the au style remotes to lock and unlock the car and you'll need to convert the door actuators like I did... That is if you get s2 or s3 Bem... Not sure what is required for the smart lock s1 Bem and whether it will enable your s3 pcm or not... I only have an s2 manual... Cheers, Tim
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| misk_one |
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Yeah its all good I realised I needed the keybarrel n s**t for the bem lol.
Not worth it for me. The ecu isn't immobilised cause its disarmed through the j3. I had it running at one stage. The ecu is putting out power to everything including the pump. It will run on start ya bastard etc. My bem may be immobilised though but I didn't that that would stop it putting out power to the fuel pump. I'm swapping the bem today and have the au cmp to put in so there should be nothing stopping it from running
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| snap0964 |
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misk_one wrote: timmy with my XH, do you think it would be relatively easy to fit an AU3 BCM to it if i keep the XH features? as in GLi with even no power windows or door ajar? i need to replace my BCM so thought it might be worth it to do the AU one The cct board might be small enough to fit in an EF/XH case maybe as well - sorts out the mounting I guess. Tim, if you're fitting AU upper arms, might be worth fitting an AU K frame and lower arms - at least then you can upgrade to AUII twin piston calipers.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| misk_one |
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The balljoint adapters are solely for the purpose of avoiding fitting the au k frame to fit the au upper arms
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| TimmyA |
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Snap,
Yeah but you remember the thread to fit an au k frame into an e series? Had to add crash tubes and move s**t around... Be a nightmare... Plus I'd have au offset and need to swap the diff and find new wheels... If I was going for big brakes I'd do like the last thread on here... Except I'd buy a pair of UPC uprights by means of begging and pleading and then turn down an e series brake into a hub and skim the face the thickness of the au rotor... Fit that and then make the bracket to mount the calliper to the upright... Be easy enough and give me true e series offset... Only risky point would be the adaptor bracket and if it's made out of thick enough steel it should give little trouble... That's my thoughts one day when I have time and space... Cheers, Tim
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| snap0964 |
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misk_one wrote: The balljoint adapters are solely for the purpose of avoiding fitting the au k frame to fit the au upper arms Yep, figured that out already.TimmyA wrote: If I was going for big brakes I'd do like the last thread on here... Except I'd buy a pair of UPC uprights by means of begging and pleading and then turn down an e series brake into a hub and skim the face the thickness of the au rotor... Fit that and then make the bracket to mount the calliper to the upright... Be easy enough and give me true e series offset... Only risky point would be the adaptor bracket and if it's made out of thick enough steel it should give little trouble... Yeah, true - pretty much same as Corey's setup. At least too you do have 17's ?
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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