Hi guys im the new member at Fordmods how you all doing?

Mate i just cant get the rear wheels to spin i have an Au 6cyl Ute 2001 running on gas auto
what can i doo to it running stock standard please help...............

Exhuast system
Diff Gears
Custom Air Iintake
Cam

etc, search is your friend

Just get some cheap skinny tyres, stall her up and away you go.

Windscreen washer bottle in the boot, mount the sprayers in the wheel arch pointing at the tyres, fill bottle with sewing machine oil, away you go.

I'd look at fixing whatever is wrong with it.

My AU ute had no troubles when it was standard.

learn how to DO burnouts properly

Try bouncing the brake. Stall it up, let go of the brake, them grab it again quickly.

this works perfectly

Skinnier tyres, actually wrong.
The amount of traction you have is directly related to the amount of weight over the rear of the car.
However those tyres may have been old hence hard rubber.

Start spinning on the dirt, getting the rev's up then hit the bitumen, that has worked for me on occasions.

In all seriousness, dont f**k with a stock car, far too much trouble and money when your better off buying the car you wont, stock.. ie XR6 turbo, XR8 etc etc

I love it how everyone advises on getting a 'good tune' and not just a 'tune'..

"Hi id like to order a mediocre tune" lol

Custom air intakes are the biggest wank since masturbation was invented

The washer bottle mounted in the boot is a wicked idea! I had that idea years ago ><

Skinnier tyres + high psi = no traction. If your statement were true, I should be able to spin my 205s just as well as my 245s - but I cant, at all.
Also hard rubber will spin a whole lot easier than fresh soft stuff!!

Clearly you havent gotten a tune from one of many who advertise on the internet.

Last edited by Dansedgli on Thu May 13, 2010 9:08 am, edited 1 time in total.

wank detected.

5ummmmm you could try lo pro tires on 15" rims
vicegrip the rear brake lines.
buying a car with some at least one ball would probably be your best bet

pull a lefty...
its probly your diff gears letting you down.
i cant do a stand still at all in my EB, but if i swing out to a doughy and plant it, it will rip sick skids, but even then i cant do a stand still once they are spinning lol.
i have a minispool though, so that helps with the doughy

i think my brack bias is out of whack also.

anyway, go to an industrial estate, do a sharp right or left turn in first gear from a stopp position and the car should either kick out sideways and rip a doughy or it will single spin its a** off.

http://www.autospeed.com/A_108915/cms/article.html

"Myth 1: Wider tyres have a larger contact patch than narrow tyres
Click for larger image

What actually influences the size of the tyre's contact patch? Is it the width of the tyre, or the profile? The simple answer that it is neither of these; the size of the tyre's contact patch is related to:

* the weight on the wheel
* the tyre pressure.

For example, say that the weight on the tyre was 900lb, and the tyre pressure was 10 psi. That internal pressure means that each square inch of area can support 10lb, so, in this case, the contact patch will be 90 square inches. If the tyre pressure was 30 psi, the contact area would be 30 square inches, and if the pressure was 90 psi, the contact area would be 10 square inches. This has been found to be almost exactly correct for most tyres (the exceptions being so-called run-flat tyres, or tyres with extremely stiff sidewalls). For most other tyres, carcass structure will have an effect, but by far the major factor is tyre pressure.

So, as you can see, the size of the contact patch of a tyre is not related to the width of the tyre - it is, in fact, proportional to the tyre pressure. What will change with the fitting of a wider tyre is the shape of the contact patch - it will get wider, but shorter longways.
Myth 2: A larger contact patch = more grip

Okay, most people will come to the conclusion that if you have "more rubber on the road" you will have increased grip. Sorry to say this folks, but to very close to 100% accuracy, the size of the contact patch is irrelevant.

The actual grip that a tyre can generate is dictated by the coefficient of friction of the rubber compound used in the tyre. The higher the coefficient, the more grip which can be generated. The relation that is used is called Amonton's Law, and the equation is:

F=uN,

where F is the force generated, u is the coefficient of friction, and N is the weight on the surface considered (in our case, the weight on the tyre).

So, if you increase the weight on the tyre, then the frictional force will increase as well, in proportion to the increase in weight on the tyre - but the coefficient of friction will remain the same. The level of grip of the tyre (forgetting about suspension niceties - we are only discussing tyres here) is totally dictated by the coefficient of grip of the tyre and the weight acting on it - not the area of the contact between the tyre and the road."

All good and well to quote a source, but you didn't address what I actually said.